|
Number
-owner- ship
-city
|
Sector
|
Products
|
Number of Employees
|
Percentage of
Women
|
Label or Retailer
|
Role of Buyers
|
Monthly Wage
|
Labour Conditions
|
Sub-
contrac-
ting
|
|
1)
-agent, joint-venture
with British company
-Bucharest
|
garment export
|
lingerie and other products
|
13
|
not avai-
lable
|
GUS (UK, Germany,Fr)
|
no special demands made
by buyers
|
non available
|
not applicable
|
yes, to small companies
|
|
2)
-privatised, agent and
producer
-Bucharest
|
garment export and garment
production
|
light- confection, and
more specialised confection like suits, blazers, sports-wear
|
1600 in five factories
|
not available
|
NL: Berghaus, Freetex,
C&A (indirect), De Bruin, Du Pont, M&S Mode
Germany: Klein, Umlauf
Fr: Veil-Becanson
Bel:Berghaus
It: Marsotto, Incom, Santin
Luxembourg: ~
USA: donna Karran, Casual
Corner, Rafaela, Gheorgio, Sant Angelo
|
Marks and Spencer makes
special demands: canteen, seperate dressing rooms for men and women
and a relaxation room for women, posters are to be put up in the
factory, warning workers about the dangers of working with certain
machines, they also demand that workers don’t eat near the
machines
|
according to the management:
average wage is 800,000 Lei gross (piece-rate), minimum is 350,000
lei gross
|
not applicable
|
yes
|
|
3)
-private company, agent
and producer
-Bucharest
|
garment production and
export
|
overalls blouses, uniforms
|
5
|
100%
|
Italian customer
|
quality control by Italian
customer
|
manager says: 600,000
lei gross for workers until 1.2 million lei gross for the super-visor
|
-factory is in a 3-room
apartment with bad lighting.
-frequent overtime according
to the manager, depending on the orders.
|
yes
|
|
4)
-private company
-Hirlau
|
garment production
|
not avail-
able
|
1000
|
99%
|
UK: C&A, H&M,
Dorothy Perkins
Bel: MCL, Hugo, Raymond,
Covinton
Fr: Kiabi
labels: New Adventure,
Bay Trading Company, Adam, Classics, VIP, John Adam, GUS
|
C&A and H&M don’t
have demands other than having a fire insurance for the material
they bring to the factory.
|
Manager says: avarage
wage is 1 million lei, worker says average wage is about 500-600,000
lei.
|
-excessive overtime depending
on orders.
-when there is lack of
orders the workers are only paid for the hours that they work
-piece rate
-no protection, no sufficient
light.
|
Not avail-able
|
|
5)
-private company
-Sibiu
|
garment production
|
blouses, vests, skirts,
trouserssuits, blazers
|
280
|
95%
|
Germany: Basler, She und
Bogie
|
The buyers do not make
specific demands. Basler does quiality control 3 weeks per month.
She und Bogie once per
week or one week per month.
|
manage-
ment: basic wage is 950,000
lei gross per month, average 1.25 million net. Workers inter-viewed
make between 300,000 and 1.1 million net.
|
-work on piece rate
-overtime paid the same
piece rate
- muggy, no protective
gloves for the cutters,
-adjustable chairs
-no union
|
not avail-
lable
|
|
6)
-private company
-Sibiu
|
garment production
|
shirts for men and children
|
70
|
90%
|
Germany: Bosch, Hansefashion,
Ahlemeijer
(all 3 indirect)
Labels: Van Vaan, Prince,
Emilio Adani, Mario's clasic
|
not available
|
managers say: average
wage is 900,000 lei
|
-cramped factory, badly
lit, humid air, bad chairs and stools
-old fire extinguishers
last checked in 1993
|
no
|
|
7)
-private company
-Focsani
|
garment production
|
dresses, jackets
|
420
|
80%
|
UK: Coppernob, Reggie
Fr: Nelson, Gaultier
It: Marzotto
US: Jessica Howard
Germany: Michael
|
non available
|
manager says: average
wage is 900,000 lei, can be as high as 1.6 million lei
2 workers inter-viewed
earned resp. 700,000 and 800,000 in February.
|
-factory is crowded and
warm
-cutting room is dark,
no gloves for the cutters
|
yes
|
|
8)
- private company
- Botosani
|
garment and puppet production
|
shirts
|
300
|
100%
|
Canadian agent: Tamilia
agent:Apollo Comimpex
2001
Italian partner who rents
part of the building and pays % of profit (and sometimes gives orders
to this factory): Benetton, Eurosport, Compagnon, Banesco, Champion
|
No client asks about environment
or social conditions
|
avarage wage: 300-400,000
lei, on piece rate
|
-piece rate same for normal
working hours and overtime
-cutting section in the
attic, cramped and cold, with only a couple of lightbulbs
|
yes
|
|
9)
-private company
-Bucharest
|
garment production
|
sports-wear, shirts, trousers
jackets
|
320
|
95%
|
It: Sergio Tucini, Benetton
Austria: Steinbok
UK: John Adams
USA: Georgio Saint Angelo
Labels: Tucini, Sammy,
Honey
|
None of the clients ever
made demands regarding social standards. Customers check coathangers
for material that is environmental-
ly damaging.
|
according to the manager:
1 million net avarage.
The workers say there
are 2 catego-
ries: 500,000 net and
650,000 net
|
-the target cannot be
reached in a 40 hour workweek and therefore workers have to put
in lot of overtime.
- cutting department is
very cold, bad lighting, no protection.
|
yes, the US produc-
ction as "they don’t
mind". the European custo-
mers don’t want this
|
|
10)
-private company
-Bucharest
|
garment production
|
light confec-
tion and sports-wear
|
60
|
not avail-
able
|
ROSTIL Mode, C&A (direct
and indirect), KAPPAHL ("Number One" and "Classic"),
and labels: Molino, Maxi, Catana, Printemps Ecco, Jr Basket
|
C&A checked the whole
factory, made a recommendation about refilling the fire extinguishers
and the toilets
Marks & Spencer also
checked the factory once and made remarks about the toilets
|
between 120,000 (appren-tices
for 24 hours a week) and over a million (with a lot of overtime)
|
-paid on piece rate
-dusty and cramped
-no adjustable tables
and chairs
-no emergency exit (factory
is on 2nd floor)
-dirty toilets
|
not avail-able
|
|
11)
-privatised company
-Timisoara
|
leather garment production
|
gloves and jackets
|
925
|
65%
|
Swe: Striva, Adetrade
Austria: Hansu Peter,
Elbert
Otto Kashler
Austrian and German armies
|
not available
|
average wage 600,000 lei
net
|
-health problems:
glue section;
cases of lung disease
and problems with liver
leather preparation section:
very toxic condition (for every year they work here their pension
starts 6 months earlier)
|
not avail-able
|
|
12)
-privatised company
-Bucharest
|
garment production
|
knitwear panties, lingeriefake
fur (gar-ments)
|
850
|
90%
|
It: Santu Stephanu
UK: Archile
Germany: Hugo Boss
|
-no control, not even
quality control by clients
-espeacially German clients
make demands regarding dyes
|
avarage wage, according
to the manage-ment: 1 million lei
according to the workers
for the stitchers it is 700,000 net.
|
-In wintertime the workers
have to work 7 days a week, 8 hours per day (now and again they
can get one day off)
-targets are high, therefore
workers can’t make the basic salary
|
not avail-able
|
|
13)
-partly private and partly
state- owned
-Bucharest
|
garment production: knitwear
|
t-shirts, sweat-shirts,
sports-wear, pyjamas, under-pants
|
580
|
90%
|
Germany: Quelle
Fr: Texarom, Europ Impost
Export
NL: JM Fashion
USA: Global Gold
Labels: Crinul, Derek
Hart
|
most buyers visit the
factory once and will come again when there are problems or complaints.
No buyer asks about working conditions
|
manage-ment: average income
is 500,000 gross, minimum is 350,000 gross
|
-there is a union in the
factory
-most of the sections
are hot, dusty and not well lit.
|
yes, there is exten-sive
cooper-ation with another company
|
|
14)
-partly private and partly
state- owned
-Iasi
|
spinning, weaving and
garment production
|
men’s under-wear,
skirts trousers curtains
|
2450
|
80%
|
90% to Swe: H&M
|
German companies ask for
AZO free dyes
H&M sent a list of
standards in English, Management is unsure if this is require-ment
or recommendation
|
according to manager
garments: 600-700,000
garment: 600-700,000 lei
|
-overtime is paid at 25%
-it is dusty, not much
light
-in dyeing section paints
are on the floor, not covered, smell is very bad
|
yes, for example curtains
|
|
15)
-privatised
-Bucharest
|
garment production
|
suits
|
1100
|
80-90%
|
Elite Collection, Jean
Lucas Seghani, Sastreria.
NL: Hij
UK: Marks & Spencer
Sp: Fenicia,
Germany: Camel Collection
Swe: Stab
Switz: Ritex
USA: Penfli
It: Samba
Labels: His, Seghani
|
According to the union
the buyer can be influential. One example is an Italian buyer that
found out about a strike in the factory over CBA negotiations and
called the management, as a result management settled the conflict.
-One German buyer made
improving the toilets a condition for the order
|
manage-ment: avarage wage
900,000 Lei gross
|
-there is a union and
CBA
-factory dusty, old chairs,
too hot in summer
|
not avail-
able
|
|
16a)
-privatised
-Sibiu
|
garment production
|
trousers
|
270
|
99%
|
Germany: Wimmers, Priest
Modelle, Goethe Company
Labels: Dehnband, Priest,
Carlo, Carla, Bermuda, Ted, Cindy, Andy, Sam, Pablo, Babsi
|
No demands are made by
German buyers
C&A asks about quality
and environment, no social issues
|
according to manage-ment
the highest in the industry
|
2 sections, the newest
looks very good; lighting, adjustable tables
the older section is not
as good but also very acceptable
|
no
|
|
16 d)
-privatised company
-Sibiu
|
garment production
|
blazers and trousers
|
1100
|
90%
|
Germany Steilmann (which
goes to Kaufhof, Karstad, C&A, Dressmaster, Bogie), Wimmers
Fr: (at time of our visit
50%) Veille with labels: Morgan, Ted Lapiduce, Presidence
It: Coin
Labels: Quatro, Bogie,
Dressmaster, Luc Saint Alban, Herri’s look, Royal Stannes,
She und Bogie, Bouquet, Classic Stones, Deviann, Cebimod, Jence
collection, Giacciomono, Larusso, Sadev
|
buyers don’t usually
come to the factory except C&A. They did not make any specific
demands
M&S did have a kind
of exam in which machines were inspected and conditions of work,
like toilets, cold and hot water, etc.
|
avarage wage, according
to manage-ment: 1 million lei
All workers interviewed
earn less, about 700-930,000 gross
|
-factory is warm and cramped
-every month meetings
with union
|
yes
|
|
17)
-partially privatised,
partially state-owned
- Iasi
|
textile and garment production
|
sports-wear, jackets and
shorts
|
1300 (350 in garment produc-tion)
|
75-80%
|
Swe: H&M
USA: Wal-Mart, K-Mart,
Han-Ten and France and Canada
|
an agreement was signed
with H&M, they come to the factory once a month and check quality.
Steilmann also makes similar demands, checked the factory and will
probably place orders in the future
|
manager: min. wage is
600,000 net, average a little bit more
|
-throughout the entire
factory the air is terrible, fluids are leaking, very dark and noisy
|
yes
|
|
18)
-privatised company
-Focsani
|
garment production
|
women’s garments
dresses, skirts, suits and occa-
sionally men’ garments
|
500
|
90%
|
UK: Kinstreet
Swe: H&M
USA: Casual Corner
It: Incom (subcontrac-ted)
labels: Emma Panella,
Touch of Luxery, Classic women, Premier Collection
|
they signed the Code of
Conduct of H&M and they also recommended improvements. The factory
would like to make them but it is not possible
|
according to manager and
workers wages are on average 800,000-1 million lei net
|
-irregular work,
when there is no work
there is a decision from case to case about payment,
when there is a lot of
work, overtime has to be done, 10-11 hours a day no exception. When
the targets are not made workers have to work on Saturdays
-factory is warm and not
much light, dirty toilets
-workers think the factory
is a good employer
|
yes
|
|
19)
-partially privatised,
partially state-owned
-Suceava
|
garment production (knitwear)
|
under-wear, jackets, skirts,
sports-wear, trousers pyjama’s
|
1200
|
90%
|
USA: Wal-Mart, GAP
Fr: Carrel (fon)
Germany: Nisa
NL: Max Abram
Swe: HEVA, H&M
It: Bertex, and maybe
in the future Benetton
UK: Asics, Usco Company
|
The buyers don’t
come to check the factory. The GAP gave questionaires to fill in,
but did not follow
|
average wage, according
to manager 360,000 lei
Accoding to workers mostly
lower
|
-wages are paid based
on a piece rate only, depending on orders, wages can be very low
-workers do not know in
advance how much work there is, sometimes they do not have work
for days or weeks, sometimes they have to work 12 hours a day
-according to the workers
the union is on the side of the management
|
no
|
|
20)
-cooperative
-Iasi
|
garment production (knitwear)
|
jumpers
|
120
|
98%
|
Fr: La Redoute
It: wholesalers
Rom: Metro (the austrian
chain)
|
no client has ever asked
about environmental or social standards
|
target wage is 500,000
lei
|
-factory is in an apartment,
lighting is bad, very old knitting machine which causes back problems
lot of waste material
which causes eye infections
-wage is on piece rate
only, and depends on the order, therefore can be very low
-manager tries to keep
workers from forming a union
|
not avail-able
|
|
21)
-joint venture with Steilmann
and Dressmaster
-Sibiu
|
garment production
|
suits
|
1600
|
non avail-able
|
Germany: Dressmaster,
Steilmann
Marks & Spencer, C&A,
Baukasten
|
C&A and M&S come
to the factory to look at the working conditions, do not talk to
the union, do not discuss wages
|
basic wage, according
to workers: about 890,000 lei gross
|
-they have new machines
which have improved labour conditions
-often hard to make the
target and so the basic wage
-no compulsary overtime
although it is better not to refuse
-iron section is very
hot
|
yes
|
|
22)
-joint venture
one company: privatised
one company: 60% privatised
40% State- owned
-Deva
|
garment production
|
child-rens’ trousers
and dresses, adults trousers and jeans
|
80 now, 600 in the future
|
80%
|
Factory just started,
they expect mainly USA customers and some European
|
not available
|
manage-ment says: avarage
wage will be 1 milion lei
|
The garment section was
being built at the time of our visit. It is supposedly going to
be very modern with a rail system, ventilation, new machines, canteen,
etc.
|
Not avail-able
|
|
23)
-joint venture
-Focsani
|
garment production
|
women’s wear, shirts,
jackets
|
2800
|
not avail-able
|
It: Incom (70% of production,
Incodu, Benetton, IBS, Devise, Luisa Spagnoli, Marzotto, Stefanel,
Esprit, Tedora, Incom, Koko
USA: Casual Corner
Germany: Herno, Kohler
Labels: Sfilata, Monsan
Jacque, Arma de Carabinieri, Atitude, Petty
|
customers only come in
to check quality of production
|
according to union: 800,000
net on average
|
-lot of problems to keep
union after Incom invested
-tried to fire older women
and hire younger
-the building is being
renovated at the moment; new ventilation system and new toilets
-targets are set high
|
not avail-lable
|
|
24)
-joint venture
-Bucharest
|
garment production
|
suits, jackets, trousers,
skirts
|
200
|
90%
|
only importers from UK,
Portugal, It
NL: Arly fashion
UK: Reggie
labels: Classic collection,
Berketex, Essentials, Pierre Batrain, Uniformes, Paris
|
no demands from buyers
on environmental issues, they do ask about social conditions though,
especially the UK customers
|
according to workers 2
cat. of wages:
400,000 lei gross
and 700,000 lei gross
|
-workers have to work
forced overtime, almost every week they work 6 or 7 days
-paid on piece rate, no
extra payment for overtime
-target is so high that
even with overtime the wage cannot be made
-factory is very cold
in winter
|
no
|
