Prepared by Nina Ascoly and Ineke Zeldenrust
December 2003

This study was commissioned by Novib in the context of a larger research program initiated by NOVIB's East and South East Asia (ESEA) desk. This report is a study of existing literature and materials that examine the causes of and nature of labor rights violations in the garment industry in the region and their impact on women workers. The main purpose of this report is to compile compelling evidence of the violation of women's labor rights in ESEA's garment sector, particularly in the sportswear sector, which can be used in campaigns that seek to improve industry conditions and empower women workers. Importantly, this study seeks to identify gaps in existing research in relation to the central hypotheses. In the next phase of this project, research organizations in the region will be commissioned to carry out research projects to address these gaps. Already, for example, the Asia-Pacific Labour Update (APLU) has been commissioned to undertake a study on the garment industry in Taiwan and Taiwanese investment in this sector outside of the region.

As part of the preparation of the Oxfam International (OI) "labor wedge," a six-month campaign (part of Oxfam's "Make Trade Fair campaign" and the OI/Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC)/International Confederation of Free Trade Unions (ICFTU) Play Fair at the Olympics campaign) slated for 2004 that will focus on precarious employment of women workers, country-based research has been commissioned in Asian countries. These country studies will consider similar hypotheses as those taken up in this study, and have similar aims. Therefore this study should be viewed in conjunction with these country studies; an attempt has been made not to cover similar ground.

An ESEA reference group was formed, and participated in this project. A draft of this report was circulated to the regional reference group for feedback. Some of the issues raised in this regional research report, and other concerns, were discussed during Oxfam's second Labour Roundtable for this region, which took place in Indonesia, in December 2003. This regional research report is intended to be a source of input for the development of Novib's and Oxfam International's longer-term research and campaigning agenda in the ESEA region.

( 525kb Download this report)