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NEWSLETTER 21, May 2006

News from the CCCs

Winter Olympic Games - IOC on Thin Ice

photo: A "ski instructor" from the Belgian CCC demonstrates his moves for sportswear workers' rights in a busy Brussels' shopping street, February 2006.

The Winter Olympic Games in Turin, Italy in February 2006 were the focus for continued pressure on the International Olympic Committee (IOC). As with the Games in Athens in 2004, the same basic message remains - that the Olympic ideals of respect, dignity and fair play should apply also to the workers who produce sportswear.

The Play Fair Alliance, which brings together trade unions and labour rights groups worldwide, has continued to press the case, as part of its "From Athens to Beijing" strategy. In the run-up to the Turin Games, the CCC published an update "How Are They Doing?" on the steps being taken as a result of the campaign by the IOC, the World Federation of Sporting Goods Industries, and seven major sportswear brands to improve conditions in the sportswear sector.

The CCC is dismayed in particular at the IOC's lack of commitment to ensuring that internationally-agreed workers' rights are respected by the Olympic movement. In October 2005 the ICFTU global union federation (on behalf of the Alliance) met with the IOC marketing department in Geneva. The IOC undertook internal discussions within its secretariat on the issues raised. So far, no outcomes of this process have been received.

Therefore, through the CCC website and other actions, people were urged to send a message to the IOC President Jacques Rogge, asking him to take responsibility for the conditions in which merchandise bearing the Olympic emblem is made. The CCC argues that, in the Olympics Charter and in practice, the IOC needs to make sure, in consultation with relevant stakeholders, that workers' rights are respected in all Olympics-related contracts. Some 1,200 e-mails were sent to Rogge from the Netherlands alone, from the network that includes FNV trade unionists. We hope to hear from Mr. Rogge soon.

For more information see www.cleanclothes.org/campaign/06-02-20.htm


Belgium: Creating a Snowstorm

In terms of winter sports, Belgium is not a big country. Only four Belgian athletes took part in the Turin Games. However, in terms of labour rights campaigning, Belgium is much bigger. Among their activities in the run-up to the Olympics in Athens two years ago, campaigners handed over a petition of 100,000 signatures to the Belgian National Olympic Committee and the Fila sportswear company.

To keep the fire burning during the Turin Olympics, on February 15, 2006 activists dressed in winter sportswear created a snowstorm in Brussels and encouraged shoppers in a busy street to take part in "winter games." The action drew a lot of attention from the public and the press.

The action was supported by the Brussels City Council, which used the occasion to announce that it will be putting a "social clause" in all its future tendering for the workwear of its employees.

For more information see www.vetementspropres.be and www.wsm.be


Netherlands: Breaking the Ice with Royalty

photo: Dutch CCC activists gather in front of the Royal Palace in The Hague to send a message to Prince Willem-Alexander who is a member of the International Olympic Committee, February 2006. Their poster "Willem Wordt Wakker" means "William Wake Up," also the title of a popular song from the sixties.

The Dutch Crown Prince Willem-Alexander is a member of the IOC. So, in February activists from the Dutch CCC went to his palace in The Hague to hand over the "Programme of Work for the Sportswear Industry" (POW) and to ask him to commit himself to improving labour rights in factories producing products bearing the Olympic logo. The Dutch activists wore the royal colour orange. However, the palace guards refused the colourful supporters entry, and so the POW had to be left at the gate. Sadly, there has been no response from the Prince as yet.

Photo: As they did in June 2004 in the run up to the Athens Olympics, the Gods of Olympus returned to Vienna's busy shopping streets in February, 2006. Their signboards announced "00:00 Labour rights in the sportswear industry," and postcards were distributed to the public to send to IOC President Jacques Rogge.


UK: Father Christmas Evicted for Campaigning

On November 25, 2005, Father Christmas paid an early visit to Philip Green care of the Top Shop Store, Oxford Circus, London. The present he was delivering was an oversize Advent calendar, bearing the legend "Merry Christmas Mr Green. Please Don't Be Mean." He also brought messages from young people concerned about the rights of workers in factories producing clothing for Green.

photo: As they did in June 2004 in the run up to the Athens Olympics, the Gods of Olympus returned to Vienna’s busy shopping streets in February, 2006. Their signboards announced “00:00 Labour rights in the sportswear industry,” and postcards were distributed to the public to send to IOC President Jacques Rogge.

Green is the UK's fifth richest man. The Arcadia Group of fashion outlets that he owns is the UK's biggest women's wear retailer. It owns seven high street labels: Dorothy Perkins, Burton, Top Man and Top Shop, Wallis, Evans, Bhs and Miss Selfridge, whose products are available in more than 2,000 UK outlets, as well as international stores in another 20 countries.

Father Christmas's support was enlisted by the UK CCC/ Labour Behind the Label (LBL) and campaign group No Sweat, after no response to repeated attempts to contact Green. Sadly, Father Christmas was ejected for his efforts. However, with simultaneous actions taking place also in Brighton, Birmingham, Norwich, Bristol, Sheffield, Northampton and Leicester, the pressure was on.

Three days later, Green took the unusual step of personally approaching activists outside the Oxford Circus store, but only to ask them to stop their protest. Later he accepted a call from Martin Hearson of LBL, but has so far not followed up on his promise to hold further conversations.

Arcadia has a code of conduct whose contents are relatively good. However, there is no public information about how it is implemented and verified. The Arcadia group has so far not engaged constructively with campaign groups, trade unions or factory managements over specific cases. Nor has it agreed to join the Ethical Trading Initiative, one of the few British clothing retailers not to do so.

Green told the Guardian newspaper, "We have contracts with all the factories who make our clothes and do our best to ensure that the workers are treated fairly. If factories do not comply, then we don't do business with them." LBL has been quick to point out that such a "cut and run" policy over cases of noncompliance does not help the workers involved, but leaves them even worse off than before.

Then in mid-February, Top Shop announced a new deal to stock Fairtrade cotton clothes in its stores. They will be lines produced by "alternative trade" companies Gossypium, People Tree and Hug. Retailing these extra lines says nothing, however, about improvements in the working conditions of Arcadia's own supply chains.

Green has massively increased Arcadia Group profits since purchasing the company in 2003. His method was revealed when he said in October 2005, "We have continued to work on our supply chain, speed to market and the customer demands of newness in store to great effect." These are of course practices that pressure supplier factories into competing to offer the lowest prices and fastest turnaround times, with negative consequences for workers.

Meanwhile, Marks and Spencer has started stocking their own Fairtrade product lines. LBL has welcomed the move but points out that the Fairtrade cotton mark only applies to cotton production and not the other stages of textile and garment manufacture. The "alternative trade" clothing retailers People Tree, Hug and Gossypium use supply chains, set up to meet guidelines set out by the International Fair Trade Association (IFAT).

For more information see www.labourbehindthelabel.org/content/view/20/57/ and http://www.labourbehindthelabel.org/content/view/34/51/

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