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NEWSLETTER 20, Dec 2005

New Resources

1) CCC Report: How Weak Social Auditing is Keeping Workers in Sweatshops

Research for a new CCC report, Looking For A Quick Fix: How Weak Social Auditing Is Keeping Workers In Sweatshops, November 2005 carried out in Bangladesh, China, Kenya, India, Indonesia, Morocco, Pakistan and Romania, found that social audits are often short, superficial, and sloppy, and are often conducted by global firms whose staff are generally unskilled and inexperienced. Audits are often not followed up with sufficient remediation. The lack of transparency within the audit industry also hinders serious discussion about its policy, practices and possible improvements to its methods.

Available at www.cleanclothes.org/publications/quick_fix.htm


2) Freedom of Association and the Right to Collective Bargaining Primer

This November 2005 Clean Clothes Campaign Primer focusing on the global apparel industry provides background information on various aspects of freedom of association and collective bargaining, particularly in the context of multi-stakeholder initiatives that deal with codes of conduct. The report highlights how freedom of association and collective bargaining are universal human rights. It details the international instruments where these standards are codified and how they are dealt with – both through International Labour Organization supervisory mechanisms and national legislation. It then offers readers brief explanations of key subjects relating to organizing and collective bargaining and deals with different Code initiatives and their treatment of freedom of association and collective bargaining. In final sections, it raises some key points for further consideration and cites various sources that can be accessed for more information on this topic.

Available at www.cleanclothes.org/codes/05-foa_primer.htm


3) Asda Wal-Mart – The Alternative Report

The second in a series of War on Want alternative company reports looks at the world’s largest retail company Wal-Mart. The September 2005 report describes how Wal-Mart’s pursuit of the lowest possible prices has taken a heavy toll on its employees and suppliers. This report reviews Wal-Mart’s record over and against its rhetoric on corporate social responsibility and also recommends action to redress some of the damage inflicted by the company’s operations.

Available at www.waronwant.org/download.php?id=369


4) MSN Codes Memo

The September 2005 issue of Maquila Solidarity Network’s Codes Memo includes an article on ‘CSR Reports: Ratcheting Up Transparency Standards?’ The second main article is on how the ‘MFA Forum Promotes Joint Action in Bangladesh’. A third article critically assesses the‘Business Social Compliance Initiative.’

Available at www.maquilasolidarity.org/resources/codes/index.htm


5) MSN Profile of Successful Campaigns

Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN) has published an 82-page booklet, called Brand Campaigns & Worker Organizing: Lessons from Lesotho, Thailand and Honduras. The document profiles three successful international campaigns that helped defend workers' right to organize. Based on MSN's involvement in these three campaigns and on interviews with other participants, the booklet draws both positive and negatives lessons for labour rights advocates in both North and South. The booklet, published in October 2005, is available in English and Spanish for $7 (including postage).

To order and for more information, email info@maquilasolidarity.org


6) Olympics Campaign: An Evaluation Of The Company Responses

The Play Fair at the Olympics Campaign (PFOC) urged 'sportswear companies and the International Olympic Committee (IOC) to bring about an industry-wide solution to the abuse and exploitation of workers in global sportswear supply chains'. In the six-month run-up to the Olympic Games (March 2004 - August 2004) a number of companies - Asics, Fila, Kappa, Lotto, Mizuno, Puma, and Umbro - were highlighted during the international public campaign. This report, The Play Fair at the Olympics Campaign: An Evaluation Of The Company Responses from June 2005, presents an accurate reflection of the various activities and interactions that took place up until two months after the Olympic Games ended, and indicates the steps that have been undertaken by the PFOC highlighted companies.

Available at
www.cleanclothes.org/campaign/olympics2004-eval-company-response.htm


7) Fair Purchasing Practices?

Addressing the negative impact that purchasing practices or sourcing systems can have on code compliance was one of main demands in the Play Fair at the Olympics campaign. This CCC paper, Fair Purchasing Practices? Some issues for Discussion briefly discusses the main elements related to purchasing practices and their relation to the CCC's campaign activities.

Available at
www.cleanclothes.org/publications/05-05-purchasing_practices.htm


8) The Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI): A Critical Perspective

The Clean Clothes Campaign released a 20-page paper in June 2005 providing a critical perspective of the Business Social Compliance (BSCI) Initiative. Under the aegis of some of Europe’s largest retailers, the Initiative sets out to audit and monitor the social performance of their suppliers worldwide by utilising one common system. This document provides some basic information on the BSCI and outlines the many weaknesses of this industry-controlled auditing initiative.

Available at www.cleanclothes.org/codes/05-05-bsci-report.htm


9) Building International Solidarity: African Asian Networking

This is a report of a solidarity workshop for African garment workers held in Swaziland in May 2005 that aimed to develop campaigning initiatives to improve working conditions in Eastern and Southern African garment factories. The workshop focused specifically on developing initiatives to address working conditions in Asian manufacturer multinationals, producing for large retailers, especially Wal-Mart. In cooperative solidarity, trade unions, shop stewards, and NGOs shared information and developed an action plan in order to improve working conditions in the region. The report includes profiles of several Asian TNCs active in Africa.

Available at www.cleanclothes.org/ftp/05-Swaziland-report.pdf


10) Race to the Bottom in the garment industry and Burmese Migrant Workers

The Race to the Bottom: Exploitation of Workers in the Global Garment Industry was published by Norwegian Church Aid in January 2005 and written by Junya Yimprasert of the Thai Labour Campaign and Petter Hveem, former advisor to NCA. The paper explores the race to the bottom in garment producing countries and examines in particular the exploitation of Burmese migrant workers in the export-processing zone in Mae Sot, Thailand. The paper demonstrates that the constellation of strong employers and weak employees in the context of extreme competition for contracts, combined with non-enforcement and corruption on the part of the Thai authorities, provides the foundation for extreme worker exploitation by factory owners, which in turn is exploited by agents and brands to keep production costs low. The authors argue that this is clearly evident in Mae Sot.

Available at www.thailabour.org/docs/index.html


11) Social Auditing in Bulgaria, Romania and Turkey

The International Labour Organization researched and analysed auditing and certification initiatives across different industries in four EU Accession/ Candidate Countries for Social Auditing in Bulgaria, Romania and Turkey: Results from survey and case study research, 2005. The close proximity of these countries to each other and the large amount of outsourcing from western European firms - particularly in the garment and textile industries where auditing is probably the most prevalent - to these countries make them ideal locations to investigate auditing and certification initiatives. Among other things, the research aimed to better understand the costs and benefits associated with social auditing for employers.

Available at
www.ilo.org/public/english/region/eurpro/ankara/programme/research.htm


12) Labour Policies Of Work Wear Companies Supplying Public Authorities In Europe

In 2001, the European work wear market was worth $3.59 billion, and is often bought by public authorities: Experts estimate public procurement to be responsible for 60 percent of total work wear sales in the Netherlands. The aim of the 2005 research by SOMO for the CCC was to provide information on large companies supplying local authorities and governments in different European countries and to take a closer look at the CSR policies of these companies. The latter is particularly important since public authorities can play a key role in improving the sustainability of the work wear sector by including social and environmental criteria in their procurement procedures.

Available at: http://www.cleanclothes.org/publications/05-11-workwear.htm


13) Background papers on work hours and living wage

Two background papers on living wages were prepared for the MIT (Harvard) as input for the Jo-In/MIT meeting on Exploring common approaches to Corporate Accountability and Workers’ Rights to held at MIT July 11-12, 2005.

Work Hours, Overtime and Codes of conduct presents an overview of working time policy and debates surrounding working time. It concludes that: (i) working time stipulations in codes of conduct are often not imposing stricter regulation than exists in many countries; (2) that the codes of conduct leave many aspects of working time that are regulated by national legislation out of the codes, such as stipulations about break time and night work; and, (3) low wages and the need for producers to meet deadlines are likely the main drivers of excessive overtime.

Available at: http://www.cleanclothes.org/ftp/05-07-mit_Working_Time.pdf

The second paper – Wages in the Apparel Industry; what constitutes a decent standard? –seeks to lay out the three key approaches aimed at providing a “fair and decent” wage for workers in the global apparel industry. The three approaches, based upon: 1) legally mandated minimum wages; 2) prevailing industry wages; and 3) efforts to promote a living wage will be reviewed, highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of each approach.

Available at: http://www.cleanclothes.org/ftp/05-07-mit_living_wages.pdf


14) Workers’ Voices: The situation of women in the Eastern European and Turkish garment industries:

A report on working conditions in Eastern Europe and Turkey, based on 256 interviews with garment workers from 55 workplaces. The conclusion is that all basic labour standards continue to be violated in Eastern Europe and Turkey.

Available at: http://www.cleanclothes.org/pub.htm


15) 4rd Revised version of: Workers' tool or PR ploy? - A guide to codes of international labour practice:

Sudwind Institute (member of the German CCC) recently published the 4th revised edition of "Workers' tool or PR ploy? A guide to codes of international labour practice".

Available online at: www.suedwind-institut.de/downloads/workers-tool-2005.pdf and
www.fes.de/Gewerkschaften as well as at
http://www.cleanclothes.org/codes/05-11-03.htm

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