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NEWSLETTER 20, Dec 2005

Urgent Appeals

Spectrum-Shahriyar:
Six Months After the Fatal Factory Collapse

October 11th 2005 marked six months since the Spectrum Sweater factory in Bangladesh collapsed, leaving 64 workers dead, at least 74 workers wounded and hundreds jobless. To date, emergency relief measures and medical needs have largely been met. Compensation payments to the families of the dead and the injured remain an important issue. Workers are still owed overtime payments and none of the workers have received their legally-due severance pay.


Women who have lost their jobs, in front of the remains of the collapsed Spectrum factory.
More than 500 workers have received medical treatment and emergency relief payments, mainly drawn from of the €35,000 provided by the Spanish company Inditex. Inditex also donated two years wages to two severely injured workers. Several other companies indicated that they were willing to contribute financially to the emergency fund, but since most emergency issues are covered, they have been called upon to contribute instead to the compensation trust fund.

The process for dealing with compensation payments has been haphazard and workers have stated that the compensation received so far is totally insufficient to help the families of the injured and dead workers in the long term. Nearly all families of the dead workers have received Tk 79,000 (€1,000) from the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), and most families have received or applied for the additional compensation of Tk 21,000 (€266) they are legally entitled to from the Labour Court. The owners of Spectrum Sweater and adjacent Shahriyar Fabric made part of this money available. Legal action has been taken in Bangladesh on behalf of five workers to demand compensation under the Bangladesh Fatal Accident Compensation Act of 1955.

Trust fund still to be hammered out

International pressure has resulted in an initial agreement among some of the parties to establish a compensation trust fund into which buyers, the factory owner and the BGMEA could contribute money. Commissioned by Inditex, the inter-national consultancy firm KPMG has drafted a proposal regarding the appropriate amounts of compensation. An initial review of the first proposal suggested that there was scope for significant improvement to obtain a fair and decent settlement package. As this newsletter went to press a revised proposal was being developed.

While some companies, such as Inditex, have been clear about their support for a trust fund to compensate the Spectrum workers and families, there are still many companies who were confirmed to have been sourcing at Spectrum-Shahriyar but who have not yet pledged to contribute to the compensation trust fund. Pushing for these companies to make such a step continues to be an important part of CCC follow-up on this case.

Money owed to workers

Workers are still owed wages and severance pay. In May, the National Garment Workers Federation (NGWF) in Bangladesh sent a memorandum regarding outstanding wages to the Labour Inspection Department and the Department proceeded to file a case against the owner of Spectrum-Shahriyar. The court ordered that these workers are entitled to their back wages. Until now, none of the Spectrum-Shahriyar workers have received the severance pay they are legally-entitled to, which would be four months (plus one month for each year worked) since the date of dismissal. Since none of the workers have received an official letter from the company terminating their employment, strictly according to the law they are even due salaries (and then severance from the date of dismissal).

CCC representatives reported that upon visiting the Spectrum-Shahriyar site, new garment-producing machinery was present and the Shahriyar factory was up and running for what was referred to as "light production work" for the Belgian company Cotton Group, in addition to packing and labelling for the German company Bluhmod of sweaters produced by Spectrum before the collapse. Cotton Group did a structural audit before agreeing on the continuation of running orders but did not ask for a social audit. The company states that the payment of the current order will be conditional to the owner paying (part of) the legal dues to the workers. The CCC representatives have raised doubts as to whether present health and safety measures are satisfactory.

There are different estimates as to the number of unemployed workers as a result of the Spectrum-Shahriyar factory collapse, and on the percentage that have found new jobs. According to the NGWF, the majority have found other forms of employment somehow, although the Bangladesh National Council of Textile Garment and Leather Workers (BNC) reports that though these workers managed to find work, it is usually temporary work and many skilled and experienced workers are doing less skilled work.

Forums for broader industry-wide discussions?

Several high-level meetings have been held involving buyers, international agencies and the Bangladeshi government. The Bangladeshi government has set up a "National Forum on Social Compliance", and within this two task forces: one for labour and one for CSR. Though this seemed a promising development, concrete plans and terms of reference for the task forces, due by late August, have not been produced. The June 27-28 MFA forum meeting in Bangladesh, hosted by the UNDP and attended by international buyers, trade unions and international organisations, provided input and suggestions towards the governance and activities of the government forum. The MFA forum continues to organise discussions with the different parties to ensure follow-up.

The Spectrum collapse is merely the latest in a series of many incidents where workers died in unsafe buildings in greater Dhaka, and workers lives continue to be at risk there. Local unions and NGOs have called for a comprehensive health and safety review and follow-up action measures since the collapse, and it is distressing that no actual progress has been made. Waiting for the government forum to make progress on its very broad mandate should not become an excuse for not taking direct and immediate action on this specific point.

Inditex disclosed its supplier list to local trade unions, and is actively exploring ways to involve them in workplace assessments and remediation work. Although KarstadtQuelle indicated that they would also provide their supplier list to the local trade unions, they have failed to follow-up on this. Several buyers have reported that they will step up their audit-activities in this area, and include structural reviews of buildings. Depending on the quality of the auditing this can certainly be an improvement, however, in the face of this tragedy it is insufficient. Collective and comprehensive action is urgently needed - there really is no viable excuse for any more delay.

Support is needed to secure justice for the Spectrum-Shahriyar workers and families! Please see the CCC website for the latest action request in relation to the Spectrum-Shahriyar case: www.cleanclothes.org/appeals.htm

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