In March 2005 Clean Clothes Campaign International Secretariat
staff visited Tunisia to meet with unions and other civil
society organisations, share the work of the Clean Clothes
Campaign and hear about the situation in the garment industry
in Tunisia. As an important production country for European
retailers, there is a need for stronger relationships with
organisations in Tunisia.
Workers in a jeans factory in
Tunisia. |
The garment and textile industry is of major importance
for Tunisia. In 2002, clothing and textile exports represented
46.8% of Tunisia's total exports of manufactured goods,
being worth around €3.2 billion per year. There are
2,135 companies in Tunisia in the garment industry that
employ over 10 people, making up about 80% of the total
industry according to recent estimates. 1,690 companies
produce for export. Nine hundred and ninety-seven companies
are in mixed ownership - Tunisia and foreign, sixty-three
are 100% foreign owned.
Tunisia is among the top 15 garment suppliers in the world,
and has the advantage of being close to the European market.
It is the fifth largest supplier to the European Union,
as well as the leading trouser supplier to the EU. Other
important products are work wear and lingerie. The main
foreign investors in the garment industry in Tunisia are
(in order of importance) France, Germany, Belgium and Italy
(Just Style, 2003).
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Work wear factory case
One Tunisian factory that CCC staff were informed
about, produces protective overalls for use in hospitals
in France and other countries. The factory dismissed
26 of the 400 workers, of which four were trade unionists
and the other 22 were supportive of the trade union.
There was a short strike to get the women reinstated.
The union tried to talk to the management, but the
management refused to reinstate the workers. Therefore
workers went on a three-day strike, supported by most
of the workers. The factory does not pay social security
for the workers, although it is deducted from their
wages, and so workers do not get health care and retirement
benefits. Workers are reportedly hit by managers.
The workers do not get wage slips and are paid less
than 200 dinar (€123), which is the minimum wage.
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The subcontracting industry
Most of the organisations the CCC met with felt that
the industry in Tunisia was in a severe crisis, which has
serious implications since the garment and textile industry
employs about half of the working population. Between 2000
and 2005 the industry lost 80,000 jobs and in the last three
years 600 factories closed down. The Multifiber Arrangement
phase-out has so far had an enormous effect on the sector
in Tunisia and most organisations are expecting the final
results to be even more disastrous.
The precarious nature of the industry was emphasised by
many organisations. There is no added value created in Tunisia
as most of the factories subcontract from either the parent
company or from other foreign clients with only the cut-make-trim
part done in Tunisia. To underline this, when talking about
the garment sector, all involved call it the "subcontracting
industry".
Tunisia does have some advantages in the global scramble
for orders in the garment sector. Short delivery times and
a favourable investment climate are frequently mentioned.
On the downside, unions pointed out that there are many
countries that have cheaper labour costs and that there
is severe competition from within the region, from Morocco
for example. Trade unions and other organisations are looking
at ways for the industry to survive, which could include
focussing on the high end of the market - on complicated,
technical products. They feel the government should provide
training to the workers to enable them to work in this high-end
sector.
Working conditions
Insecurity of employment is seen as one of the most
severe problems in the sector in Tunisia, caused by the
increasing use of temporary contracts and companies closing
down. Companies are using a loophole in the law that allows
them to employ workers without offering a stable contract.
Increasingly workers have gone on strike to protest against
not being paid for months on end. Sudden closure without
paying workers' salaries and severance pay are the order
of the day. Other concerns mentioned were workers not getting
paid the minimum salary, workers not getting social security
and sexual harassment. There are cases where women have
been working for 30 years for a factory and still do not
get social security, as the employer has never registered
them even though contributions are deducted from workers'
wages every month. The unions feel powerless seeing many
companies closing and others threatening to do the same.
ATDF - the Association of Democratic Women
One of the organisations visited was the Association
Tunisienne Des Femmes Democrates (ATDF), the association
of democratic women. Through organising debates, training
and campaigns they are working against all forms of discrimination
against women, encouraging women to take the lead in finding
solutions for their problems, and advancing the participation
of women in civil and political life. They offer support
to women that have been the victim of violence and discrimination.
Because most of the workers in the garment sector are women
(as in most other countries) and seeing the importance for
the employment and economic situation in Tunisia, the ATDF
is looking at issues that concern workers in the garment
industry. One suggestion they have brought up is to start
a centre, in cooperation with other NGOs, that would work
with women in the subcontracting industry and in homework.
The ATDF has carried out research on sexual harassment
and has started a centre de l'ecoute, a centre for women
to come to and get help having faced sexual harassment.
Sexual harassment is a large problem in Tunisia and there
is a low level of understanding of the problem and how to
address it. A law against sexual harassment was recently
adopted but instead of drawing attention to the problem
of sexual harassment the government introduced the law through
a campaign against every form of "sexually provocative"
behaviour (which can even include walking hand in hand).
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Companies Sourcing in Tunisia
From France: Absorba, Balmain, Cacharel, Camaieu,
Celio, Chevignon, Chipie's, Lacoste, Guy Laroche,
Naf Naf, Petit Bateau, Prénatal, Rodier, Yves-Saint-Laurent,
3 Suisses
From Italy: Benetton, Diesel, Marzotto
From Germany: adidas, Mustang, Speedo, Triumph
From Belgium: Brunotex, Sioen, Staels
From the UK: Lee Cooper, Next
From the US: Lee, Wrangler, Gap, Hanes, Levi
Strauss, Reebok, Russell, Fila
From Sweden: H&M
From Spain: Inditex
Compiled from various sources (2004,
2005).
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