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NEWSLETTER 16, February 2003

Producing Dirty Shirts

Garment Production linked to Environmental Damage and Health Problems in Tirupur

A recently published study concludes that the textile bleaching and dyeing production processes carried out in the Tirupur area in southern India, are a serious threat to human health and the environment.

Factory owners and workers from 16 factories (textile dyeing, textile bleaching, and garment production), as well as trade union representatives were interviewed between August and November 2001 to learn more about working conditions and health and safety concerns. Farmers from surrounding villages were also interviewed about water quality, both for individual or household consumption and irrigation. Water samples were analyzed in order to investigate the quality and effectiveness of wastewater management in the textile industry. The results, published in the report "Dirty Shirts: A study of health, safety, and environmental concerns in the context of the garment industry in Tirupur region, India," were staggering.

Researchers from Community Awareness Research Education (CARE), an Indian NGO, found that the people of the Tirupur region depend on water that, according to World Health Organization standards, is not fit for any sort of consumption or for irrigating farmers' fields. The textile industry is responsible for the pollution of air, soil, surface and groundwater. They found the treatment of wastewater to be insufficient. That the effluent treatment plants in the area are failing to adequately treat the wastewater is apparent - not just from the analysis of samples of water coming out of the plants, but simply to the naked eye. Sixty-four percent of the farmers interviewed reported that the water leaving the plants was black, 20 percent reported blue water flowing out of the plants, while eight percent reported seeing red water and another four percent say yellow water coming out of the plants.

Other concerns cited in the research report are the lack of drinking water and water for domestic and agricultural uses due to the enormous use of water by these industries. Also noted was deforestation, which has come about as a result of the use of fossil fuels for boilers in the factories.

And for workers in the industry the problems of pollution in the community are compounded by what they experience at their workplaces. Researchers found that workers in dyeing and bleaching facilities handle chemicals without proper protection, and are faced with chronic health problems, including skin diseases and hair loss.

Clearly, these findings should raise widespread concern over the impact of the bleaching and dyeing processes that proceed the actual stitching of garments. The study, commissioned by the Dutch consumers' organization Goede Waar & Co, focused on facilities in Tirupur that supply Dutch garment retailers. However, the concerns raised in this study are relevant to those beyond the Netherlands. With 800 dyeing and bleaching units using 60,000 kilos of chemicals and over 115 million liters of fresh water per day, the water pollution and consumption caused by Dutch garment production is most likely just a drop in the bucket, comparatively speaking. Other European and North American companies rely on Tirupur for textile and garment production and should also be pressured to step up their efforts to improve their practices in the region.

To order a copy of this study, please contact:

Goede Waar & Co
Postbus 61236
1005 HE Amsterdam
the Netherlands
Tel: 31-20-686-3338
Fax: 31-20-686-7361
E-mail: goedewaar@xs4all.nl

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