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NEWSLETTER 14, JULY 2001
Ethical policies of Dutch retailers
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Between October 2000 and March 2001 SOMO and the Dutch CCC did
a research project in India and Sri Lanka into labor conditions
in garment factories that are producing for major Dutch retailers.
The Dutch companies are: Bijenkorf, HEMA, Hunkemöller, Vroom
& Dreesman and WE International. These companies all have
a code of conduct and have started implementation systems, but
there is still no sign that independent verification of what the
working conditions are in the facilities producing their garments.
Although it wasn't easy to track down the suppliers of the companies,
SOMO managed to find 14 suppliers in India and in Sri Lanka. They
looked especially for the company's own brands, such as Easyway,
Javelin, Bakito, M&S Mode, Prenatal, Bijenkorf Basics, HEMA,
Vroom&Dreesman Casuals, WE Man, and We Women.
During the research project, SOMO conducted interviews with management
at the factories. These interviews revealed that "social"
monitors are not visiting all production locations, and that the
monitoring system of the Dutch companies is not sufficient. In
each location a local NGO that the CCC has been working with for
several years conducted the interviews with the workers. These
interviews revealed that the biggest problems according to workers
is that wages are too low, there is quite a lot of obligatory
overtime, and there is a lack of freedom of association. Workers
don't feel that codes of conduct have improved their living situation.
Children still have to work because their parents don't earn enough,
and women are being discriminated against.
Results of the research are being compiled in a report that will
be presented to the Dutch companies. The CCC hopes that these
companies will recognize the failure of their implementation systems
and that they will collaborate with the CCC and local unions and
NGOs to find a solution.
