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Country reports Clean Clothes Campaign - February-October
2004
Belgium North - Schone Kleren Campagne
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Olympics campaign (Belgium total)
Common activities
Petition - 91 800 signatures, online and offline
Launch - 4 March - good press coverage
Fila - 2 actions - in June and September; manager did not want
to receive us. Contact with Fila International to inform them
Torch
- Antwerp
By coincidence somebody from ABVV youth department was torch
bearer. Except for a picture and an article not many opportunities
for action
- Brussels
Action. Especially people from Oxfam MDM, also from Oxfam
WW, Oxfam Solidarity, ACV, Wereldsolidariteit.
- BOIC - Two meetings before the Games, 1 meeting after
the Games
Activities per organisation
Oxfam in March and April
- Launch 27 March in Antwerp and Arlon.
- 27 March till 24 April (Oxfam Solidarity & Oxfam
WW & Oxfam MDM): 300 local activities (stands, debates,
leafleting).
- 22 April: seminar 'investments' (Oxfam Solidarity).
- 24 April: Brussels: '40 year Oxfam in Belgium' (Oxfam
Solidarity, Oxfam WW, Oxfam MDM).
- A lot of press coverage.
International forum (Vêtements Propres)
- With support from Oxfam MDM, Oxfam Solidarity, Gresea,
FGTB, Solidarité Mondiale, Clean Clothes Campaign
International Secretariat, Novib, IVVV.
- Participants from employers' side; Fila however did not
react.
- Also BOIC participated, IOC could not attend.
- Trade unionists from CNE Disport en Go Sport.
Festival Mano Mundo (Wereldsolidariteitplein)
One of the big stages was turned into 'Olympic
stage' with different acts + petition.
KBG Seniorensport
Petition work.
Bicycle tour (SKC en Govaka)
From Leuven via Luxemburg, France, Switzerland,
Italy to Greece. 2150km in 13 days. Participants 25 Belgian
men and 1 Dutch woman (Christa De Bruin from CCC Netherlands.
First 10 days constant meetings with local organisation &
press. Meeting with local authorities from Longwy, Contrexéville,
Alessandria and Rapallo. Finally meeting with Belgian ambassador
in Athens.
ACV/CSC
Petition work.
ABVV/FGTB
Petition work.
T shirts
We are conducting some market research on working
conditions of different available T-shirts (nationally and internationally).
This because we get a lot of requests for clean shirts from
groups, festivals etc. Perhaps we might develop an education
pack for schools as well.
Ethical brands
We are regularly updating our information on
the ethical brands on the Belgian market.
Informal economy
The NGO Wereldsolidariteit is conducting an awareness
raising campaign about the informal economy, not only garments,
focus on social security.
- Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Gildan - Honduras
Belgian NGO FOS started action in cooperation with partner organisation
FITH FESITRADEH.
Daiyin Lanka - Sri Lanka
Belgian NGO Wereldsolidariteit is preparing an action in cooperation
with partner organisation National Workers Congress.
Maquilas
NGO -FOS and TU -ABVV continue their campaign
on maquilas.
Visit to Honduras Summer 2004, preparation of event in April
2005.
- Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Clean Clothes Communities
Till now, 62 resolutions (out of 300 communities) taken.
Some communities included demands to public tenders; now collecting
these tenders.
Questions for information keep coming in.
Social label
3 companies got the social label, evaluation in preparation.
Central and Eastern Europe and Turkey - partner
organisations
Public Awareness
Other activities and Events
15 - 16 April 2004, International Seminar in
Bucharest, organized by AUR/ Romania on "Working Conditions
and the Labour Market in Central and South-Eastern European
Countries under the Context of Globalization" with participation
of CCC Int representatives, The Romanian Garment Employers Association,
the Research Institute for Life Quality, ILO Bucharest, TU confederations,
National Labour Inspection, the CCC local partners.
24 June: first ever street action in Sofia, Bulgaria,
for fair working conditions related to the Olympic Campaign,
by participants of the EEM and supported by CITUB.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Demir Kapiya - Tricolan/ Greece, Sotineks Kavadarci,
- all in Macedonia
Since the first strike in summer, Stip (Macedonia) is following
up this case.
Partner Activities
Bulgaria: 21 June 04 - first CCC platform meeting
with representatives of CITUB, Podkrepa TU, BEPA, WAD and other
NGOs, supported by IS staff.
17-18 April: Train the Trainers (ToT) workshop
for the Romanian group and the CEE country coordinators in Bucharest,
preparing a series of 6 national ToT workshops in Poland, Bulgaria
(March), Serbia, Macedonia and Turkey.
22-23 September: Evaluation and Strategic Planning
Workshop of CEE/ Turkey coordinators in Meissen, Germany. Agreed
priorities:
- Building the capacity of and strengthening the network
- Support to Workers
- Raising awareness and advocating worker's rights
Project proposals planned:
- Exhibition
- Creating information centres in support of garment workers
- Capacity building and network strengthening
- International exchange visit tour
August: Karat Poland submitted a proposal (continuing
investigations, public awareness work, round tables) to the
German chapter of World Day of Prayer, which was approved in
November
November: Karat Poland became a partner in Suedwind Austria/
French CCC EU consortium proposal
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
April - September: monitoring activities in Poland,
Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Macedonia and Turkey (55 workplaces,
265 workers interviewed), summary reports for each country are
currently reviewed for publishing, 37 local investigators trained.
French and German speaking communities in Belgium
- Vêtements Propres
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Olympics campaign
The result of the Play Fair at the Olympics campaign in Belgium:
two entire stadiums, crammed full of people demanding respect
for the fundamental rights of sportswear workers! A poignant
symbol for a meeting with the COIB (Comité Olympique
et Interfederal Belge / Belgian Interfederal and Olympic Committee).
29th September, Brussels: A delegation from the
Play Fair at the Olympics campaign today met the COIB to hand
over a portion of the 91,806 petition signatures it has collected.
M. DeBondt, Secretary General of the COIB and Mr Falon, Director
of the 'Federation Services' department, were impressed by the
size of the petition, and the commitment of the citizens demanding
that they stop sitting on the fence and take serious action
to protect the rights of workers producing sports shoes and
clothing. A parallel action had taken place at the office of
Fila's Belgian distributor, in Ostend, the week before.
This brings to an end - for now - in Belgium
and across the World, the largest mobilisation for the respect
of the rights of workers producing sports shoes and clothing.
The key to its success? A rare combination and dynamic mix of
trades unions and non-governmental organisations (NGOs) at the
international level. In Belgium, the FGTB, CSC, Oxfam Magasins
du Monde, Oxfam Solidarité, Solidarité Mondiale
and the Campagne Vêtements Propres (and their Flemish
counterparts) have combined their energies and their respective
skills to make this an above-average campaign.
With hundreds of press reports, over 300 actions
at the local, regional or national level, an epic cycle ride
from Leuven to Athens, an open letter to Justine Hénin,
a parade of honour for Belgium's Olympic relay team, Sports
Days on the 1st May, an International Forum... and the centrepiece
of the activities in Belgium, a petition demanding that Fila
and Adidas respect the rights of workers in their production
chains and demanded that the COIB take the initiative with concrete
actions.
The COIB has shown some interest in the campaign.
The attitude of the Olympic authorities has been constructive,
although the members of the campaign note a lack of concrete
commitments. The 91,806 signatures should push the COIB towards
a more pro-active, credible attitude, consistent with the Olympic
ideal. The COIB cannot on its own persuade sponsors and license-holders
to respect the rights of workers, but, supported by the Belgian
public, it can take a constructive step by aiming to include
the respect for workers' rights in the Olympic charter, and
therefore in its own sponsorship contracts and granting of licences,
and those of the IOC. The latter have earned the Olympic Movement
US$1.4bn between 2000 and 2004, a tidy amount. Will this question
be on the negotiating agenda when the COIB's renews its contract
with adidas? In either case, the Olympic Movement will not be
able to avoid the issue for much longer: preparations for the
next Games in China are already being scrutinised by NGOs and
trades unions.
Toy campaign
Is in preparation for the end of 2004, and is
focusing mainly on purchasing practices and their impact on
the labour conditions in production (and retailing).
Three fields of work
- Awareness raising material on the responsibility of retailing
to be distributed through member organisations (trade unions,
NCOs) to be printed in 80.000 copies in " Le Ligueur
" and to be distributed in schools. New (while secondary)
topics : enlargement to other " ethics " issues
as gender, war games, etc.), relationship with the over
consumption issue. Proposal of several actions.
- Building a trade union tools on code of conduct and on
purchasing practices for trade unionists in retailing chains
to demand information from their employer through usual
processes inside the company (garment, sports wear, toys).
- Media action to accompany the publication of the results
of a research requested by ICRT (International Consumer
Research and Testing). We have made a French adaptation
of the new Swedish Trade Center broadcast on toy production
and broadcasting on the public television channel (Swiss
television could be interested as well).
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
- Haïti - Codevi - Grupo M - Levi's
Together with Yannick Etienne, Batay Ouvriyé : press
conference, action in front of Levi's Europe headquarter in
Brussels and launch of a letter sending action to Levi's Europe.
Excellent press coverage. No possibility for a dialogue with
Levi's (refusing to receive Yannick).
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
Consultation Fair Wear Foundation - Under process.
Joint Sectoral Belgian code of conduct for the garment industry
Between FGTB textile and the federation of employers. It is
based on the Clean Clothes Campaign's criteria's. It doesn't
consider the Belgian public social label as an effective tool
for the garment industry, and doesn't promote specifically the
Fair Wear Foundation. It puts the social harmonisation system
as the main and central tool to reach socially responsible production.
Clean work wear
Initiative and support to regional FGTB trade unions of
the glass and extractive industry to request clean work wear.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Belgian Public Social Label
After having labeled two services, the first product is
now labeled : the stone " petit granit " removed from
local Belgian mines by the specific small company " Carrières
du Hainaut ".
Germany- Kampagne für 'Saubere' Kleidung
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Mode, Macht und Frauenrechte (fashion,
power and women rights) of TERRE DES FEMMES : Film tour with
the Mexican human rights activist Judith Galarza and the documentary
"Senorita extraviada". The film is about the cases
of disappearances of young girls and women in the Mexican-American
border town of Ciudad Juárez. The majority of the girls/women
work in textile factories there. The film was presented in towns
all over Germany and Vienna in cooperation with local TERRE
DES FEMMES activist groups. The press was informed and there
were articles in newspapers.
Olympic Campaign:
- 3-day action workshop June 10 - 13 in Meissen:
INKOTA-netzwerk in cooperation with the Evangelische Akademie
Meissen organised an action workshop for CCC activists.
Sonia Lara Campos of NLC, in El Salvador, presented the
findings from recent research at a local Adidas production
site. Berndt Hinzmann, INKOTA-netzwerk Berlin, introduced
the CCC Olympic Report, translated in German. "The
price is really hot - the race for profits and the sports
wear's real price" was the theme of the action workshop,
where the participants jointly generated a street theatre
play, which was also performed during a public action in
front of sportswear shops in Leipzig.
- Street Theatre Workshop
Performing for "Fair Play at the Olympics"
26 June 04 from 9.30h - 16.30h at the Tanzfabrik Berlin
The CCC Germany/ INKOTA-netzwerk e.V. welcomed the Olympics
Torch on June 30 in Berlin with a special performance. It
offered an opportunity for public activity to our supporters.
- "Fair Play at the Olympics"- Alternative
torch relay
At the occasion of the official Olympic Torch Relay on June
30, INKOTA-netzwerk e.V. organized an alternative event.
Dietmar Mücke, the prominent world champion in bare
feet running and ultra-marathon running, committed himself
to run and speak up for fair working conditions in the global
garment industry. The public was invited to run with him.
A theatre performance, olympic rings throwing and other
games were organised. Activists talked to the people about
the campaign issues and asked them to sign a letter to the
B-brand companies.
- Meeting with NOC
On Friday the 9th of July representatives from Oxfam,
the trade union and the German CCC met with the general
secretary of the German NOC, Bernhard Schwank, in Frankfurt.
We gave him the Olympic report. He told us, that he will
give a official statement to the report and the campaign
after the Olympic games.
- Participation in Karstadt Ruhrmarathon
The start of the sport summer 2004 was the participation
in the Karstadt Ruhrmarathon on the 24th of April. With
the slogan "Sportswear from Asia - Reebok is paying
few salaries" a big colorful dragon was floating over
the visitors at the start and end of the marathon race.
- Tour with Sonia Lara Campos
The CIR invited Sonia Lara Campos for a two-weeks-tour throughout
Germany. She is doing research for the National Labor Committee
(NLC) in El Salvador. On the tour from the 6th until the
20th of June she talked about the working conditions in
the suppliers of adidas in El Salvador. Stations of our
trip were: Münster, Dortmund, Göttingen, Meißen,
Köln, Düsseldorf, Würzburg, Weilheim, Konstanz
and Hauenstein. The interest was impressing at one meeting
in Hauenstein were about 70 participants. Together with
Sonia we had also a meeting with representatives of the
regional parliament of NRW.
- Action Day
At the beginning of the Football Games on the 12th
of June we held a central action day in Köln. This
day we were in Köln with the dragon and a group of
young students performing a street theatre play about the
bad working conditions in the maquilas. At the same time
there was a press conference with several journalists. The
press coverage was very good.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Bangladesh: Push BGMEA for action. UA has been sent around
to several hundred people.
Partner Activities
June 2004: Friedrich Ebert Stiftung and SÜDWIND -
Training workshops, symposium, round tables on the phase-out
of the ATC in Indonesia (unions, NGOs, government, employers)
and Phnom Penh (unions from Thailand, Philippines, Malaysia,
Indonesia and Cambodia as well as government and employers).
Codes of conduct and urgent appeals training in Indonesia.
October 2004: Invitation of SDPI and Friedrich Ebert Stiftung
to SÜDWIND - ATC and codes of conduct training for unions
in Pakistan.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement : in NRW pilot project
and in Hamburg
Legal Action : The OECD complaint case of
the German (Austrian) CCC against adidas was closed on 24 May
2004 after adoption of a final communiqué.
New Publications and Materials
- "Global Game for Cuffs and Collars. The phase-out
of the WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing aggravates
social divisions", by Sabine Ferenschild and Ingeborg
Wick, publ. SÜDWIND Institut für Ökonomie
und Ökumene and Ökumenisches Netz Rhein Mosel
Saar, SÜDWIND texte 14, Siegburg July 2004, download
www.suedwind-institut.de/Downloads/global-game-2004.pdf
(translated from German edition of May 2004, Spanish translation
in preparation).
- Overview of teaching material, exhibitions, videos/films
etc. of different CCC-organisations has been compiled by
TERRE DES FEMMES and is accessible at their homepage.
International secretariat - Clean Clothes Campaign
Coordination
Campaigns
Play Fair at the Olympics
Of course we have all been working extensively on the Olympic
Campaign in the last months, up until the Olympics in Athens.
The fairolympics website shows part of the activities that have
taken place. It has drained the resources of the international
secretariat, we have worked extensively on this, planning and
plotting with the Global Unions and Oxfam in the lobby group,
the popular campaigning group and the steering committee. It
is an exciting campaign, also on national level. One of the
main moments, the international gathering in Athens just before
the Olympic campaign has been an important moment and also has
drawn a lot of press attention. The campaign will be discussed
further during the European coordination meeting.
Other activities and Events
Euromeetings : February (Brussels) / October (Amsterdam)
Two European coordination meetings were prepared by the International
secretariat this year. The first one was in February (Brussels),
where the agenda featured amongst others the Olympic campaign,
the ongoing discussion on Reporting and Relationships and the
preparations for the Enlarged Meeting. The second was in October
(Amsterdam) and started with a special day on Monitoring and
Verification. The subsequent days, Funding opportunities and
the Internal website and communication were discussed, and the
Olympic campaign and Enlarged Meeting evaluated.
Enlarged European Meeting
The IS, together with Bulgaria's BEPA, prepared the Enlarged
European Meeting, which was held from the 23rd till the 25th
of June. In February, a brainstorm weekend was organised in
Belgium, to work on the programme for the meeting. This was
then discussed at the Euromeeting, after which the practical
and content-related preparations continued. For this first Enlarged
European Meeting of the Clean Clothes Campaign, where not only
national coordinators of CCCs attend but representatives from
national coalitions join in as well, 50 people from 16 countries
met in the Institute for Teachers' Qualifications in Sofia,
Bulgaria. They had an intensive three days of review and discussion
of the CCC's work and strategising for the future activities
of the campaign ahead of them. Four Eastern European countries,
ten Western European countries and Turkey were represented.
The meeting took place in the midst of the Play Fair at the
Olympics campaign, one of the CCC's biggest campaigns to date,
and this was marked by a protest action held in the centre of
the city on June 24th.
Bulgaria was chosen as the venue for the EEM specifically to
strengthen the campaign in Eastern Europe, particularly in networking
and campaigning. Although the CCC only began in Eastern Europe
around 2000, several organisations in countries have now started
working with the campaign.
The main aim of the meeting was established to be:
To evaluate and improve the campaign and its structure
This overall aim was divided into the following specific objectives:
- To make members of national CCCs aware that they are actors
in an international network (with different platforms)
- To get feedback and move towards consensus on our coordination
and communication
- To set up an action plan for working with Eastern and
Western European groups
- To evaluate ways of campaigning and improve methods to
involve public and organisations
- To set up most important priorities, activities and strategies
in three years time
- To give the Bulgarian and Eastern European campaign a
boost
Above all, the meeting hoped to harness participants'
experience and imagination and to generate enthusiasm and inspiration
for the coming years, building on the successes the CCC has
had to date.
Campaigning strategies on informal labour
in the global garment industry
Together with the Evangelische Akademie Meissen (Germany) and
Dutch IRENE, the CCC IS organised this seminar, which was held
in Meissen from the 23rd till the 25th of September. Representatives
of CCC UK, Sweden, Belgium North, Germany, Austria and the Netherlands
came together with participants and experts from Asia, Eastern
Europe and Latin America, to discuss the best strategies for
campaigning on the improvement of working conditions in the
informal garment industry. The aim of the seminar was to share
information on
(1) the current challenges facing workers in the garment sector's
informal economy and
(2) organising, campaigning and other initiatives involving
or in support of these workers; and
(3) to formulate specific goals and strategies for labour rights
campaigns seeking to support workers in the garment sector's
informal economy. The programme included sessions on the main
challenges facing these workers, workers' experiences from Asia,
Eastern Europe and Turkey, research and mapping in different
countries, working groups on right to organise, legal status,
migrant workers' rights and homework, campaigning on informal
labour (to raise consumer awareness, towards governments, companies
and MSI's), campaigning strategies in the context of the informal
garment economy and the setting up of a joint agenda for action.
The outcomes of the seminar will be compiled in a report.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
- UA Impact Assessment Study
The field research for the UA study took place in Sri Lanka,
Bangladesh, and Indonesia during September. Kelly Dent is now
back in Australia and will begin work on the last phase of the
project - writing up all the information gathered. The project
is still on schedule to be completed by the end of the year.
A date has been set for the workshop to share the study results
with the European CCCs and discuss follow up - February 2nd.
No date has yet been set for the workshop to be held in Asia
to share/discuss the results with organizations from our wider
network that have been involved in UA cases.
- Sofia outcomes in relation to urgent appeals work
During the Enlarged European Meeting in Sofia the workshops
on urgent appeals work generated the suggestion that a training
workshop be held for those within the European network who work
specifically on urgent appeals cases (participants could also
perhaps representatives from the North American campaigning
groups we often join forces with on casework - MSN, CLR, Sweatshop
Watch). Several people indicated that they would be interested
in working on a proposal for such a workshop, however it seems
more logical to wait for the findings of the impact assessment
study and the workshop that will be held to discuss and debate
those findings and recommendations, and then prepare a training
workshop proposal based on the priorities that come out of that
discussion.
Current CCC cases
- North Sails, Sri Lanka
- Gildan El Progreso, Honduras
- PT Sarasa Nugraha, Indonesia
- PT Busana Prima Global, Indonesia
- Codevi, Haiti
- Murdered unionists (FTUWKC), Cambodia
- Workwear, Sri Lanka
- PT Doson, Indonesia
- Misco Supermarket, Bangladesh
- Vedasanthur spinning mills, India
- PT Micro Garment (i.e. PT Kahatex)
Partner Activities
Train the Trainers
For the project where representatives of five countries
from Eastern Europe (Bulgaria, Romania, Macedonia, Serbia, Poland)
and Turkey are trained to set up networks of investigators in
their countries (Train the Trainers, coordinated by Bettina
Musiolek and Regina Barendt), throughout the year representatives
of the IS went to meetings in four countries. In November 2003,
we visited a Karat women's network conference in Warsaw, Poland
and a subsequent meeting of the TtTnetwork. In April 2004, We
gave a presentation about the CCC at a Romanian conference on
(national) labour conditions, and participated in a TtTmeeting.
The participants in the project attended the Enlarged Meeting
in June, which was organised in Bulgaria to help strengthen
the Bulgarian and Eastern European network. A separate meeting
on the local Bulgarian network was organised, with representatives
of Bulgarian NGOs, TUs as well as Esther, Nina and Marieke of
the IS. The final meeting of the project was organised a day
before the start of the Informal labour seminar in Meissen,
Germany. The outcomes of the project were presented, and future
strategies for joint work discussed.
Asia regional meeting
From March 25-27 AMRC, TLC and CCC jointly organized a 3 day
meeting in Cambodia, primarily to discuss the Olympic campaign
(Asia chapter). The last day of the meeting also aimed to looked
longer term at campaigning in Asia and cooperation on the global
level. The meeting was well attended, about 50 representatives
from most Asian countries and of several regional networks and
a good mix of trade union and NGOs.
Workers' Olympics
In August TLC and AMRC jointly organized the Asian Worker Olympics
Solidarity Day in a stadium in Bangkok. The event, which included
workers from 8 Asian countries playing soccer, javelin and labour
rights quizzes, was well covered in the local and regional,
and some international media. The sports day was followed by
a 2 day 'worker exchange' programme, where workers and TU and
NGO reps shared their experiences as workers in their respective
countries, as well as their experiences in the Olympic campaign
and their ideas for follow-up. The meeting was very stimulating
and interesting for all participants. A report will be published.
Africa
FES Madagascar, together with SOMO (for the CCC) and IRLF organized
a meeting in Madagascar in August to discuss issues around the
garment sector in the Exporting Processing Zone. The meetings
was primarily organized for shop stewards and fitted into a
longer training project of the FES together with NGOs and unions
in Madagascar to support shop stewards with information and
skills development.
SOMO is developing a database, together with a research organization
in South Africa and the ITGLWF Africa on Asian companies in
Southern and Eastern Africa, to collect and make available information
collected by research organizations, unions etc. SOMO is also
making company profiles on several large Asian companies that
are active in Africa, to be used by trade unions in Southern
Africa and by campaigning organizations.
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
Turkey project
The steering group of the Collaborative MSI project has
met in January, May and August. The group has:
- Agreed upon a project plan,
- Drafted terms of reference for cooperation with local
partners and with companies,
- Nearly finalized drafting a common code for use and testing
in the project (version 14 presently up for debate)
- Obtained funding from US state department and the EC
- Hired a coordinator (Susan Hayter, on leave of absence
from the ILO)
Early November meetings will be organized in Turkey
with the different stakeholders to present and discuss the project,
connected to this a next steering group meeting will be organized.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
CCCommunities
In the follow up of the CCCommunities meeting of October
2003, the IS tried to finish the reader containing the useful
and important documents from the countries that work on this
project already. Proposals were done for a follow up meeting
as well, and contacts were made and information shared with
other organisations working on the subject (SweatFree Communities
/ US, No Sweat / UK, NoSweat SFU / US).
New Publications and Materials
Olympic mailing
In April we sent out a mailing, containing a poster, some
leaflets, a campaign update, press overview of the launch and
the Global Campaign Framework to our contacts in Asia, Eastern
Europe and Africa.
Olympic material
For the Olympic campaign the CCC, together with the Global Unions
and Oxfam, produced a report, an image (the T-shirt with statistics),
produced newsletters for the Global campaign team and updates
on the lobby and campaigning. Furthermore a poster was made,
leaflets (translated among others in Bulgaria and India) and
a Greek newsletter that was distributed in the days before the
Olympic Games in Athens. We collected a lot of photos to be
used for the Play Fair letters in from of the Acropolis and
we will think about a way how best to keep all these and show
to future generations! Several press releases were written and
press attention was abundant. An overview will be made, and
we welcome all your national press cuttings.
Internal website
At the beginning of 2004, the CCC internal website was set up.
It contains a news section, a chat forum, contact and shared
address book facilities and an events calendar. These sections
are accessible for all national CCC network members. National
coordinators can besides this share documents on several issues,
including Euromeetings, Urgent Appeals, Joint campaigns (CCCommunities
/ Olympics etc) and Material. Throughout the year, various improvements
were made, which still continue - including trying to integrate
the Urgent Appeals database with this interface.
Gender newsletter
The newsletter is in the process of writing and editing,
and is expected to be finished at the beginning of next year.
the Netherlands - Schone Kleren Kampagne
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Fair Play at the Olympics (Play Fair op
de Spelen, eis eerlijk gemaakte sportkleding)
- 4 March: launch of campaign with press conference and
parade through the streets of Amsterdam.
- 26 April: Hamdani, unionist from Indonesia, visited the
Netherlands. We organized a guest lecture at the Fashion
Institute of Amsterdam, interviews with the FNV, national
newspaper and radio Netherlands.
- 22 June: Flame action with parade through the streets
of Amsterdam (awaiting the official Olympic torch to arrive
Amsterdam on 23rd of June)
- 27 July: action at the Fila importer's office in Leusden.
- 29 July: send off action in Utrecht. A group of 30 Dutch
cyclists left for Leuven in Belgium where the next day the
big departure took place of the bike tour to Athens.
- 30 July: Dutch CCC participated in the bike tour to Athens.
Lot of media attention, also in Dutch regional newspapers,
on Dutch national and regional radio station.
- 19 August: Action in shopping heart of Amsterdam with
big scheme showing the swimming finales 100 meters and campaign
videos.
National campaign coalition: CCC, Novib and FNV.
Other organizations participated in distributing materials (action
cards) to their supporters, linking websites etc.
Meetings with:
- Dutch Olympic Committee NOC*NSF (3): NOC*NSF made a lot
of commitments. A.o. they are willing to add a clause concerning
labor rights in their sponsor contract with Asics. They
asked the directors of the sport associations to consider
to do the same.
- Asics (2). Asics is the official supplier of the Dutch
Olympic team and has its European headquarter in the Netherlands.
In the first meeting we discussed the report, explained
the demands etc. During the last meeting we handed over
the more than 30.000 signatures collected through the action
card. Asics made some commitments, they promised to work
on transparency and to talk with the FLA.
- The large sport associations (athletics, volleyball,
hockey, football).
Various presentations at festivals and sports events.
Material: leaflet, action cards on Asics,
stickers, badges, 5 newsletters were circulated. We made a boomerang
card 'Fail on Fair Play' targeting Fila. These boomerang cards
(100.000) were distributed at sport schools. And for the flame
action we ordered sweatbands, produced by a FWF member.
Other activities and Events
Workshops and lectures:
- 10 March: workshop at the VU (University of Amsterdam)
- 30 March: info stand at the Ravage festival in Amsterdam
- 20 April: 4 workshops at the ROC (vocational training)
in Utrecht
- 23 April: lecture at the UvA (University of Amsterdam)
- 1 May: training for activists and street action in Haarlem
- 5 May: info stand at festival in Amsterdam
- 18 May: training on campaigning for regional development
organization in Groningen
- 25 May: workshop for students at the high school in The
Hague
The Clothes She Wears: exhibition
On September 3rd, the Clothes She Wears opened in England. It
is a fashion collection showing the actual clothes worn by women
who work in the garment industry, from women in Lesotho, Sri
Lanka, Mexico, The Netherlands, Britain, Australia, Thailand
and Bulgaria. Stories about the women's lives are displayed
next to each outfit.
The exhibition was produced by Siobhan Wall, who is an artist
and volunteer for the CCC.
The Clothes She Wears was previously shown in Amsterdam and
Utrecht Town Halls in spring 2004. The Clothes She Wears can
be borrowed by museums, galleries, libraries and organizations
and can easily travel to European locations.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Global Sports Lanka (North Sails Lanka)
In December, a Memorandum Of Understanding was reached
between union and management. Campaign suspended. However, since
then, no progress has been made, management is unlikely to make
any substantial steps. Union wants to restart the campaign.
Dutch CCC and IS wrote a letter, threatened to restart the campaign.
Prepared a letter for European coordinators to sign. (in the
meantime, the campaign has been re-launched, re.)
PT Busana Prima Global
In 2003 we had a letter of protest written on PT Busana
Prima Global, which is also supplying Head, Dutch sportswear
brand. We had some actions at Mees Pierson, investment bank,
and Head's representative. Mulyani, who worked for PT BPG, visited
the Netherlands in December 2003. We made a video tape with
a message from Mulyani to Head, sent it to Head. Never got a
response on that. We feel we can't let Head go away with this,
without any reaction etc. We are considering actions on Head
in future. Because the dispute wasn't solved, and also because
Lotto was one of the brands targeted in the Play Fair campaign,
we decided to write another letter of protest on this case,
sent it to the importer of Lotto in the Netherlands, no response.
Letter writing on:
- Gildan El Progreso : CCC received a letter from HMZ
Fashion group (importer).
- PT Doson : In 2003 we had some actions organized around
this case and collected a lot of signatures, but we lacked to
follow it up. We've sent these signatures to Nike NL.
- Codevi : We've sent a letter to the World Bank, no reaction.
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
- On the 24th of March, The Fair Wear Foundation
made public for the first time which companies are FWF members
and have signed the FWF Code of Labour Practice. 11 companies
at that time had become a member. The FWF is in dialogue with
more companies of which some seem to be very interested. The
FWF wants to become operational in more countries. China is
the most important producing country for the current FWF members.
Work has been done in China, India, Macedonia. Audits for Tunisia
and Turkey are planned.
- Producers of work wear seems to be an important group for
FWF, the largest producers of work wear are FWF members. FWF
started a working group with FWF members, FWF staff, CCC staff,
representatives of municipalities in order to exchange experiences
on clean purchasing. On 13 October 2004, a yearly meeting was
organized by Bureau Sustainable Purchasing. Amsterdam is nominated
for a price because of the guide they wrote on public procurement
(and won, re.). This guide contains directions for purchasers
on how to purchase work wear in a sustainable way. It refers
clearly to FWF membership. Enschede has recently published a
document for tender in which social and environmental criteria
are inserted and that refers to FWF membership.
Solidaridad releases Made by label
Solidaridad, one of the Clean Clothes platform members,
is releasing a new label, called Made-by. Kuyichi, Imps&Elfs
and X-as are member companies. CCC regrets this initiative for
a couple of reasons:
- Refusal to become FWF member. Instead, they choose to
work with SA8000 certification, as it concerns manufacturing.
Objections against SA8000 certification.
- No unions involved (they call it a multi stakeholder
initiative).
- Misinterpretations of various principles such as chain
responsibility.
- This initiative is misleading consumers, because lack
of good monitoring and verification system. They want to
set up model supply chains, but still part of the production
of the Kuyichi clothing e.g. is done in China and other
countries; consumers are not informed about this.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Clean Clothes Communities
- We tried to create support in the municipal organization
through public servants and buyers involved with the purchasing
of work wear. This resulted in two meetings:
- 19 February in Utrecht: about 35 people attended this meeting,
also from other municipalities. The Fair Wear Foundation was
present as well. Utrecht prepared a resolution concerning clean
purchasing policy.
- 26 March in Amsterdam (in cooperation with the Amsterdam bureau
for municipal purchasing): 40 people attended this meeting.
Amsterdam has become an important partner in the Clean Clothes
Communities campaign. The bureau for municipal purchasing presented
its guide on public procurement, which is adopted by the City
Council of Amsterdam. This guide contains directions for purchasers
how to purchase in a responsible way and has been widely spread,
also to other interested municipalities, national government
services, national platforms / organizations etc. Parties agreed
upon a yearly evaluation on experiences and progress that has
been made.
- The largest Dutch producers of work wear have become members
of the Fair Wear Foundation. For municipalities, and for the
Ministry of Defense, it becomes easier to purchase in a responsible
way.
- A working group has been set up consisting of FWF members,
CCC, and representatives of municipalities (a.o. Amsterdam).
In June they met for the first time. Aim: exchange experiences
and bring sustainable purchasing into practice. Many (local)
governments don't know how to insert social criteria without
conflicting European rules e.g. The FWF is preparing an information
package which aims to inform buyers and member companies on
sustainable purchasing.
- SOMO did research on the purchasing policy of the ministry
of defense following the resolution adopted by the Dutch government
end 2002. The conclusion is that the ministry of defense didn't
want to be transparent on the accomplishment of the pilot project
(part of the adopted resolution). Research also shows that the
new European guidelines offer enough space to insert social
and environmental criteria with public tendering.
- On request of a regional development organization in Groningen,
CCC gave a training on its CCCommunities campaign, as inspiration
for a possible future campaign.
New Publications and Materials
- Dutch newsletter 'Schoon Genoeg', April 2004, news on
the Fair Play at the Olympics campaign, interview with Frans
Papma (FWF) and an update on the Clean Clothes Communities
campaign
- Brochure 'Van Papier naar Praktijk' on different multi-stakeholder
initiatives, similarities and differences, meant for the
Dutch public to explain the importance of a good monitoring
and verification system.
- Letter of protest, July 2004, on Lotto re. PT Busana Prima
Global in Indonesia
- Leaflet on CCC, what the CCC does etc.
Spain - Campaña Ropa Limpia
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
The Spanish Clean Clothes Campaign has initiated
a new programme in September 2004, related to the ethical public
procurement. For now, they are working around Barcelona and
in the near future expect to extend this programme to other
cities in Catalonia.
They are financed by:
- "Diputació de Barcelona"
- "Fons Català de Cooperació"
There are three cities preparing their first
"clean" order during 2005:
- Barcelona
- Badalona
- Manresa
These three cities are going to take into account
the degree of conformation to the basic ILO conventions.
CCC Spain has formed a work commission between civil servants
to study the legal options to include this social criteria in
their clothes purchases.
Activities
- Studying other experiences in Europe.
- Distributing a little book about ethical public procurement
to all municipalities in Catalonia.
- In January/February open the website www.comprapublicaetica.org.
- Organise a meeting with civil servants interested in
the programme, to inform them.
- Meanwhile we will be working in the diffusion of the
ethical public procurement and the purchase of fair trade
by the public administrations.
Sweden - Rena Kläder
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Play Fair at the Olympics
The Play Fair Campaign resulted in more than 40 activities
in nine different cities. This resulted in 16 000 signatures
and signed action cards. Some of the activities:
- Clean Clothes festival tour. (Same as last year, but with
focus on Play Fair)
- Action day the 1st of July (torch)
- Street events in Malmö, Uppsala, Göteborg and
Falun
- Play Fair Runners in a women's race in Umeå (all
the competitors got action cards afterwards)
- Columns in three of the four biggest newspapers
- 1,5 media features (news articles, TV and Radio features)
every week during the hole campaign period
After Play Fair at the Olympics
During "Play Fair" we didn't focus on Swedish
Sportswear retailers, but they were approached by media during
"Play Fair". After the campaign we will look at them
more specifically.
Rena Kläder i skolan - Clean Clothes in School
From the 4th to the 8th of October approximately 70 high schools
all over Sweden were visited by the local Trade Union Confederation
office. The Trade Union activists brought an exhibition and
brochures. They had small workshops in class rooms and showed
the 10 minute version of "We Shop - Who Pays?". All
material, including manuscript and power points for the presentations,
was provided by Rena Kläder. The work was done by members
of LO.
Young Swedish Fashion
There are a lot of popular Swedish brands with a high fashion
profile. We have never paid too much attention to these brands
but Fair Trade Center is going to do some research on these
companies and their codes and purchasing policies. Depending
on the results from the research we are planning a campaign
in spring and summer 2005. These brands are new and very strong
and a campaign targeting these companies will get a lot of attention
in media. Some of the brands act on a bigger market then just
in Sweden.
Other activities and Events
Book and library fair
On the Swedish Book Library Fair there is an area called
"the International Square". Here you don't find publishers
and authors, but solidarity organizations, activist networks,
youth organizations and so on. This year you could also find
Rena Kläder. Visitors could write action cards play the
game "Match right scandal with the right brand". This
game were designed for the festival tour, but used again on
the fair. Rena Kläder was also introduced to the visitors
on a stage two times.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Ariya Textile Co Ltd., Thailand
A new case. The factory is a supplier to the Danish company
B-Young and also to a Swedish sportswear retailer (with own
brand) Stadium (the official supplier of the Swedish Olympic
Team). So far we only sent faxes to the factory management,
and to B-Young's sales office in Sweden.
Companies
Brand related work
Etikbarometern
Fair Trade Center did a comparison of the 14 biggest sport
brands and retailers in Sweden. The research was published in
Råd & Rön (Sweden's biggest consumer magazine).
The clean clothes campaign in Sweden has decided to contact
the companies that scored lowest in the comparison to put forward
the CCC "demands".
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Clean Clothes Communities
A lot of preparation activities are going on. We will use
a broader approach including more then just clothes. We will
raise the issue, and ask other movements to do it as well (e.g.
Fair Trade coffee). Ethical Procurements will be the special
focus on the "Rena Kläder education weekend"
in November. In January a book about ethical procurement will
be published by Atlas. In this book the authors will sort out
what is OK to do and what is not, according to the law, give
examples on what has been done among communities in Sweden and
in Europe, and an action guide both for politicians and citizens
. This book will be the intellectual base for the coming campaign
in Sweden and is sponsored by Rena Kläder. A lot of organizations
outside the Swedish coalition are interested to work in this
area. For example SKTF, the union for community officials, the
union who are organizing the people that actually perform the
public procurements.
- New Publications and Materials
- Brochure "Tyg och Otyg" (SWE)
- Exhibition "Bilesa" (SWE)
- New website "Rena Kläder", Release in January,
(SWE)
- Brochure about Public Procurement, Release in November
(SWE)
- Book about Public Procurement, Release in January, (SWE)
Switzerland - Clean Clothes Campaign
Public Awareness
Play Fair at the Olympics 2004
- press conference on April 28: 10 articles in national
an local newspapers, two radio stations and one national
TV station
- collected 5'183 signatures directed to IOC - handed out
to IOC on Sept. 16th
- contacted five major retailers in Swiss sporting goods
market
- 71 groups with a total of 18'029 people have signed the
appeal to IOC
- information given to people on May Day at a football
tournament
- presentation at a conference for teachers on May 6th
- actions in a shopping malls and on sports events in 7
cities
- around 16'000 copies of a flyer have been distributed
in German, French and Italian language.
Results:
Swiss Olympics (=NOC):
- written reaction on May 13 2004, agrees with aim of the
campaign
- the responsibility is within the sport associations (incl.
IOC) and the garment industry (incl. the consumers)
- meeting scheduled for February 2005
Public Eye on Davos 2005
(=parallel conference to the World Economic Forum WEF,
Jan. 2005)
Next January, the Berne Declaration and Pro Natura - Friends
of the Earth Switzerland together with other NGOs will be hosting
another "Public Eye" event. The highlight will be
the award ceremony, which will be held on the evening of 25
January 2005 in Davos. Candidates for the awards are companies
who have excelled in socially and environmentally irresponsible
behaviour.
Companies
Assessment of retailers
In collaboration with a consumer organization a questionnaire
has been send out to 34 companies. Very good response. Publication
for a broad public: "Prêt-à-Partager".
For the launch reports in newspapers, 10 minutes at the national
radio at 8 o'clock in the morning and 2 pages in a magazine
were spent.
Other relevant and inspiring news
Participation at the CSR-Group meeting of IGDS (the Intercontinental
Group of Department Stores - including M&S, LaRedoute, K&Q,
Manor, Jelmoli, and others) in Zurich (Sept. 9). Presented the
position of CCC on CSR and the question of Monitoring and Verification.
United Kingdom - Labour Behind the Label
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Play Fair at the Olympics
The Olympic report gave evidence of breaches of workers' rights
by Umbro suppliers in China, Indonesia and Thailand. Umbro,
not represented in the 2004 Olympics, was difficult to target
by the PFOC but was targeted by LBL via its Euro 2004 campaign
instead.
LBL's objectives were as identified by international campaign,
in particular to exert pressure on 'B' brands and the British
Olympic Association (BOA) and to bring Umbro to the discussion
table.
Activities:
- press work on Umbro: Sunday Times of 23 May 2004 a key
article; LBL glad that article by Daily Mirror did not make
it to print as facts had been embarrassingly exaggerated;
Sunday Express article (reluctantly) turned down after constructive
meeting with Umbro;
- press work on Olympics: BBC World Service and BBC Asian
Network on day of launch; Ethical Consumer Magazine; Red
Pepper. Press work was mainly left to Oxfam;
- a special Olympic bulletin for LBL supporters ('sold
out'); a briefing, action card and mini website on Umbro.
LBL distributed 8,000 BOA cards and 25,000 Umbro cards.
LBL's support base grew by 17% during Umbro campaign;
- PFOA campaign stalls at teachers' and shop keepers' union
conferences (in addition to those organised with Oxfam and
TUC);
- Dissemination of campaign and materials via supporters
and member organisations, partner organisations and networks
we belong to;
- a speaking tour by Agung Hermawan from LBH Bandung, and
Neneng, worker in Umbro's main supplier factory in Indonesia.
Were guest speakers at a seminar on Gender and Globalisation
organised by GFTU; at a fringe meeting organised by No Sweat
and LBL at annual conference of the Public and Commercial
Services union; and at USDAW's annual Black Workers' conference;
met with GMB Scotland and the Scottish Professional Footballers'
Association, which agreed to write letters to Umbro and
Fila (Fila now being sponsor to the Scotland team) and to
Sports Minister in support of campaign's demands.
A meeting took place with Umbro, which ended with
a commitment to look into the specific violations of workers'
rights raised at the meeting and organise a meeting between
LBH Bandung and Reebok and Umbro's South East Asian representatives.
Following this, Reebok and Umbro have made recommendations to
PT Teodore and LBH Bandung has been invited to participate in
worker education programmes in the Bandung area. However, there
is no evidence as yet that Umbro has taken appropriate steps
to address workers' grievances at PT Teodore or the mass redundancies
imposed on the workforce of subcontracting factory PT AK.
Umbro is engaged in dialogue with the PFOA alliance
(UK), has applied for membership of FLA and is working with
Reebok on code implementation and with ITGLWF on workshops on
freedom of association in Vietnam and China.
LBL also participated in the lobbying of Roots,
the British Olympic Association, the Greater London Authority,
representatives of the UK government and members of Parliament
and played an active role in lobbying within the ETI for a focus
on purchasing practices.
Other activities
Fashion colleges
LBL has been building links with the teaching staff of Central
St Martin's, the London College of Fashion, Cavendish College
and the Surrey Institute of Art and Design and discussing the
integration of a global and ethical dimension to their teaching
programmes. All four have agreed to be part of a steering group
to oversee the formulation of a funding proposal to DG Development.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
PT Busana (GPS/Lotto). Also disseminated Levi's (Haiti)
and BGMEA (Bangladesh) appeals.
Partner Activities
Indonesia: LBL is working with LBH Bandung over PT Teodore
(one of the factories featured in Olympic report) and PT AK
(where entire workforce was made to resign under pretext of
closure).
Public Authorities
Public procurement
LBL is working with Cardiff University, which is conducting
research on our behalf on the public procurement practices of
local authorities and the extent to which ethical issues figure
in the decision-making process.
New Publications and Materials
Briefing and action cards on Umbro.
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