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Country reports Clean Clothes Campaign -
June - October 2003
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Austria - Kampagne für
faire Arbeitsbedingungen weltweit
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France - Collectif De
l'éthique sur l'étiquette
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Germany - Kampagne für
'Saubere' Kleidung
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Spain - Campaña
Ropa Limpia
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Sweden - Kampanjen Rena
Kläder
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Austria - Clean Clothes - Kampagne für faire
Arbeitsbedingungen weltweit
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Sports and Olympics Campaign
After the success of our actions at the Vienna City Marathon
in May 2003 we went on with our Sports Campaign with actions
at the Graz Marathon and the three-countries-marathon in the
autumn. At the Graz Marathon we were present with a big info
point and the medals (in the form of CD-ROMs) all finishers
got, contained an CCC-advertisement.
The Olympics planning is on its way, and a separate
working group inside the platform was established together with
activists.
Codes of Conduct for TNCs
Solidarity among Women (one of the members of the Austrian
CCC) has launched a 3 years' information campaign/project on
"Codes of Conduct for TNCs" in May this year, together
with the German NGO and CCC member Christliche Initiative Romero.
The project consists of four components of which the first one
will be an information journey to India which takes place from
the 5th-16th of January 2004. The group going to India consists
of 11 women: three women from different governmental political
parties, one from the press and the others from various NGOs.
The other three components will be the production of an information
video, a calendar and a poster action. The objective of the
visit to India is mainly to gather information about the situation
and the state of discussion about Codes of Conduct in India
(which works in this case as an example for all the other countries),
to bring together the Austrian participants with their Indian
colleagues and to discuss the topic, the possible common strategies,
etc. and continue the work in Austria more efficiently based
on the experiences of India. The participants of the trip will
be offered the possibility to see the backgrounds behind the
CSR/CoC discussions, to see the working reality of women in
different branches of factories that are producing for the Austrian
market, to find out what a Code of Conduct means in the working
reality of the women working in those enterprises and what their
claims, criticisms and proposals are concerning Codes of Conduct.
It is planned to visit enterprises that have made
and effort to implement (various kinds of) Codes of Conduct,
to discuss with the workers there and visit factories. Moreover,
we want to get in touch with trade unions, representatives of
the industry and NGOs working within this area.
Other activities and Events
CSR-Austria Dialogue
In the autumn we intervened in the debate about CSR in Austria,
a project founded and funded by the chamber of commerce and
the government. We brought the CCC issues into the discussions
and they took up some of them.
Steirischer Herbst 2003 (styrian autumn)
This is a big theatre festival in Styria that had one CCC-related
play called "Dry Clean Show". They had advertisements
of the CCC in all their material.
Infotables and Actions at:
- Trade Union Seminar September 16th 2003.
- 2 Street Festivals in Vienna, September 19th 2003
- Students Festival in Vienna, October 10th 2003
- Congress of Austrian Trade Unions, October 15th 2003,
improved our contacts with TUs.
- Discussion on trade union rights in Colombia, October
22nd 2003
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Hermosa, adidas
289 people participated in our two e-mail actions on adidas
and Hermosa in June and July 2003.
Jaqalanka Ltd.
323 people participated in our e-mail action on Jaqalanka
Ltd. in August and September 2003. Campaign ended.
North Sails Lanka
Campaign still going on. 276 people participated from June
2003 till now.
PT Kahatex
Campaign still going on. 524 people participated from September
2003 till now. We also did a press release on the case because
s.Oliver is the sponsor of a casting show called "Starmania"
on Austrian television and made some stir.
Partner Activities
Solidarity among Women plans to visit the CCC-Taskforce
during the Information journey to India in January 2004.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
CSR: Solidarity among Women is taking part in
the NGO-Platform dealing with CSR to bring in women's issues.
New Publications and Materials
New Newsletter
On the 31st of October the new CCC-Austria newsletter came out.
Print run: 9000 (which is 2000 more than before)
Belgium North - Schone Kleren Campagne
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Clean Clothes at work
This campaign aims to have workers wearing uniforms at their
workplace in Belgium get their company to source ethically.
We got feedback from trade unionists that they had brought the
issue on the agenda in 6 companies so far.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Jaqalanka
We put the appeal on the website and we sent the appeal
to our mailing list of 250 teachers; we also sent it to an NGO
that has been sponsored by Nike and ABVV (TU) sent a protest
letter to VF Europe.
Tarrant
We put the appeal on the website.
Partner Activities
Maquila
3 maquila trade unionists from El Salvador, Honduras and
Nicaragua made a tour through 3 regions of ABVV; later on 30
Belgian trade unionists and the 3 Central American trade unionists
held a 2 days seminar and drew up an action plan.
The maquila trade unionists were from 'Sindiciato de trabadoras
de empresa (El Salvador); Federación independente de
trabajadores de Honduras and Confederación Sindical de
Trabajadores José Benito Escobar (CST-IBE / Nicaragua)
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Clean Clothes Communities
At least 3 communities have integrated social criteria in their
call for tenders.
We had a meeting with 40 participants: civil servants, trade
unionists and somebody from Alsico, an important Belgian producer
of work wear with 13 production sites abroad (France, Tunisia,
Morocco, Ukraine, Slovakia, Thailand, Singapore, ...).
Bulgaria - (BEPA) CCC Programme
We have mainly directed our efforts to tracing
subcontracting chains of German contractors in the Bulgarian
garment industry and also to doing research on labour conditions
in factories producing for the German market.
Companies
Brand related work
Information concerning the level of trade between
Germany and Bulgaria and garment products has been collected
from official sources. It turned out that Bulgarian garment
export to Germany amounts to 48% of the total exports of Bulgaria
to Germany. This marks a growth of 32% per year for the period
2000-2001. In other words, Bulgarian garment export is a rapidly
growing item in the overall Bulgarian export to Germany. The
range of German companies and brands outsourcing in Bulgaria
goes from some world famous brands such as adidas, Puma, and
Hugo Boss to retailers and dealers in products by catalogue
like Otto, Qwelle and Neckerman, and suppliers like Rollman,
Heiner und Peter Roessler and Rudolf Schripp. The outlined subcontracting
chains show an interesting and somewhat mixed picture - some
of the chains have established direct links with their contractors
while others get their orders using different agents and intermediaries.
The world famous brands that have already accepted companies'
Codes of Conduct are of particular interest.
Eastern Europe & Turkey
Public Awareness
Campaigns
A lot of Eastern European countries are planning
(for the first time) some campaigning work, specifically for
the upcoming Olympics campaign.
Solidarity Work
Partner Activities
Romanian and Bulgarian partners took part in
the Muehlheim IRENE/CCC pricing seminar.
Bulgarian and Turkish partners took part in the Amsterdam Monitoring
seminar.
There is the remarkable initiative "women's
rights at work" in the East of Macedonia (see international
newsletter December 2003), a garment industry centre. Here,
working conditions are miserable. In addition, state subsidies
for re-qualification schemes are abused by employers. A local
organisation educated women on their rights and initiated a
local multistakeholder group that raised awareness locally and
nationally - with some result.
In June: Women's labour Rights network established
in Romania.
In July, Sofia: kick-off for Train the Trainers
project - a project to establish a network of researchers/activists
with related national networks across 5 Eastern European countries
and Turkey and to train women in how to investigate working
conditions in the garment industry (conducting workers' interviews
and writing respective reports).
France - Collectif De l'éthique sur l'étiquette
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Olympic campaign
08/2003 : a letter was sent to CNOSF (French member of IOC)
24-25/01/2004 : training for local CCC's volunteers
Other activities and Events
European Social Forum
CORPORATE SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY :
ETHICS OR FAKE?
For a citizen control of the European Corporate social
and environmental responsibility regards to international
activities.
European Social Forum, November 12-15, 2003
Thursday, November, 13th at l'Usine, Saint-Denis |
Coordination: Collectif De l'éthique sur
l'étiquette (CCC-France), in the name of the European
network Clean Clothes Campaign (12 countries). Organisation:
Amis de la Terre/Friends of the Earth, Amnesty International,
CCC-Deutschland, De l'éthique sur l'étiquette
Collective, CRID, IG-Metall, No Sweat, Peuples Solidaires, Secours
Catholique/Caritas, Sherpa. Violation of the Human Rights at
work, degradation of the environment
The companies have
a share of responsibility. How do trade unions and associations
analyse the current mechanisms of public and private regulation
of the social and environmental behavior of the European companies,
in their international activities? Which proposals to promote
in order to improve and reinforce this regulation? This seminar
aims to support the debates, sharing experiences, synergies
- even alliances - between associations and trade unions involved
in the field of Corporate Social and Environmental Responsibility.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
- Publication of a guide on ethical public procurements.
- Creation of a working group within CUF (Cités Unies
France) before the end of 2003 on local authorities and
ethical consumption. CUF is the French member of the World
Federation of United Cities. The French CCC will participate
in the coordination of that group.
- Organisation of a national conference before June 2004
(what can a local authority do to promote socially responsible
consumption?). With that conference the aim is also to test
a framework of training and produce tools that could be
used at regional and local level.
- Organisation of a workshop in Paris, in May 2004 on socially
responsible public procurements during the congress where
the World Federation of United Cities (Paris) and the International
Union of Local Authorities (The Hague, NL) are going to
merge into a new organisation "United Cities and Local
Government" (their office will be in Barcelona, Spain).
- Creation of a regional network in the region of Paris
("Ile de France") and development of a regional
network "Nord-Pas de Calais" (near Belgium).
Germany - Kampagne für 'Saubere' Kleidung
Public Awareness
Activities and Events
August: CCC-Workshop at the Attac-summer-academy.
October: Speakers tour with Marina Rios from MAM/ El Salvador.
25th of November: event in Leipzig, begin of the campaign of
Terre des Femmes: Fashion, Power and Women Rights with the presence
of Lek from Thailand and Anifa from Macedonia
From November 18-30, round trip (speakers tour) of Lek and Anifa
through 12 cities in Germany
For the year 2004 the German CCC will organize a conference
on the phase out of the MFA/ ATC.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Kahatex, Indonesia
Several urgent action calls. The CCC group at Hamburg has
organised two actions (26th of September, 5th of December) in
the streets of Hamburg protesting against Tom Tailor. TT and
s.Oliver have placed several orders at Kahatex sweater factory.
Critical comments by the German CCC on the audit report of Kahatex
written by Systain (consulting) on behalf of s.Oliver. Meeting
between CCC and Systain representatives on October 24th.
Partner Activities
On 15-19th September 2003, the German SÜDWIND
Institut für Ökonomie und Ökumene and the Friedrich
Ebert Stiftung organised a second workshop on codes of conduct
for unions and NGO's in Indonesia. This workshop evaluated a
union survey conducted between August 2002 and January 2003
in seven supplier factories of Geman garment / sportswear factories
in Java, which had been prepared at a workshop held in February
2002 in Jakarta. The survey provided interesting facts and figures
on the implementation of codes of conduct in these factories.
Meanwhile fundamental labour rights violations were still the
order of the day, some code-related improvements were nevertheless
reported by almost 50% of the interviewed workers.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Hamburg, the council for development policy of
the city has adopted a motion with respect to ethical procurement
on October 20th, which has to be forwarded to the "senat".
Two workshops were organised to raise awareness for the subject.
New Publications and Materials
- At the end of November 2003, the German SÜDWIND
Institut published a brochure on the development of codes
of conduct of adidas, C&A, KarstadtQuelle, Metro, Nike,
Otto, Peek & Cloppenbrug, puma, Reebok and AVE (Foreign
Trade Association of German Retailers) since 1992. This
brochure concentrates on the development of social standards
in company codes of conduct, classifying them in tables
according to the CCC/ICFTU code provisions. The brochure
reflects progress of consumers' pressure on garment / sportswear
companies during the past 12 years. ("Nadelstiche von
VerbraucherInnen - Modemultis in Bewegung - Die Entwicklung
von Verhaltenskodizes seit 1992", von Ulrike Tscherner,
hg. SÜDWIND-Institut, Siegburg 2003, Verkaufspreis
4 EURO, ab 10 Ex. 3,50 EURO, ab 50 Ex. 3 Euro's).
- Mode, Macht und Frauenrechte, 96 pages, German (Terre
des Femmes).
the Netherlands - Schone Kleren Kampagne
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Clean Clothes Communities
Amsterdam made a guide for its civil servants on how to procure
uniforms and work wear in an ethical way. The CCC is pressing
to make Fair Wear Foundation partnership obligatory for suppliers
of uniforms and work wear. We are researching to develop a new
strategy for municipalities to implement the adopted resolutions.
Results will be collected and worked out in a guide that will
be published by the end of this year.
Fashion Files
The Fashion Files is coming to an end. This last trimester
still 25 workshops at secondary schools are planned through
which around 1000 students will be reached. The Dutch young
people who've been to Sri Lanka last year (http://www.cleanclothes.org/campaign/fashion-files.htm)
are still involved in the project, but won't be available next
year. Through the workshops Gucci action cards, as well as leaflets
on the PT Doson case (Nike) are distributed. Fashion Files also
participated in the North Sails action.
Other activities and Events
Flevo Totaal festival
Workshop and panel discussion on CCC (August 15th): 150 attendants,
handed out about 200 Nike flyers and 200 Gucci action cards.
'Day of the Alternatives' (Dag van de Alternatieven)
Workshop on Olympic campaign (September 6th): low attendance,
about 50 leaflets distributed.
'Turn the Tide' demonstration
This is a demonstration organised by several organisations
with the aim to protest the plans of the new right wing government.
CCC was present at an information market with more than 100
other organisations.
Dam to Dam run
The Dam to Dam run (September 21st) is sponsored by Nike:
Banner on the route, handing out about 300 PT Doson flyers.
Workshop on Clean Clothes Communities
At a regional conference of the GreenLeft Foundation for
Sustainable Solidarity (October 25th), low attendance.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
PT Doson
- Flyer translated into Dutch and distributed among the
subscribers of the Dutch protest letters.
- Street action in front of Footlocker (July 3rd): 1000
flyers spread, interview at local radio.
- Distributed about 200 flyers at Nike exhibition (July
11th).
North Sails
At surfing event promoted by North Sails at Makkum beach
(September 20th), the CCC with the Fashion Files group did an
action (See: http://www.cleanclothes.org/companies/northsails-03-09.htm),
handing out action cards and collect signatures (>200), lip
gloss, and together with the surfers we painted a NS surfing
sail with slogans and signatures, that the CCC Austria will
give the Boards and More Group of which North Sails is a division.
At the same day, an action was done by the Fair Wear campaign
in Australia, and in Sri Lanka 10.000 (!) leaflets were handed
out in the Free Trade Zone demanding the reinstatement of the
North Sails Lanka workers and the recognition of the union.
- Letters of protest on North Sails (June 24th
- Action cards on North Sails (September 2nd)
- Letters of protest on the PT Doson case (Nike -September
16th)
PT Busana
Internet petition sent around by e-mail to platform members.
Partner Activities
We visited Bulgaria for the kick-off of the Train
the Trainers project in Eastern Europe (July 18/19th).
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
- The Dutch government adopted a resolution on ethical
public procurement last year (including a pilot project
at the Ministry of Defense). At this moment, the political
party who brought this resolution in, is asking the responsible
minister questions.
- Legal Action
The platform of Corporate Social responsibility organised
a meeting on legal initiatives (October 9th).
Other relevant and inspiring news
We have organised an urgent appeal tour (December
4th - 8th). We welcomed 4 Sri Lankan (Jaqalanka, North Sails)
and 2 Indonesian (PT Busana) guests. On the 7th of December
we organised a day for our subscribers of the urgent appeal
system so that they can meet the people they are writing for.
Spain - Campaña Ropa Limpia
Public Awareness
Our priority continues to be raising awareness
about the objectives of the CCC through activities on the street,
among the consumers. In various Autonomous Regions the CCC has
held street actions and presentations for audiences who were
unfamiliar with the work that CCC does. Other presentations
focused mainly on the evolution of the CCC, the 4 aims, current
activities and positive developments.
Activities and Events
CRL workshop: The interactive workshop on CRL
continues "showing" in Cataluña, it's becoming
that successful that we are planning to extend it to other communities.
- Coinciding with the fashion week in Barcelona, we held
and alternative CRL fashion show jointly with teachers and
students from a prestigious fashion design school. It was
very well attended, including by local politicians. We will
try to do it again.
- Some specialist magazines, like Ecologist and Options,
and the official Consumer magazine have dedicated a special
article to the CRL which raised a lot of public awareness.
(Blocking our web mail for weeks..)
- We continue the cyber campaign ¨Just Stop It¨,
distributing the letter in stands, inside publications related
to the campaign (Options). CRL is are now organising, for
the end of November, the final of the campaign with another
week of street action and the handing out of letters collected
on the last day, calling the press for the event.
- This July we started a weekly radio programme (15 minutes
long) in the Basque country, in which we inform about the
CCC, their objectives, activities and latest UA and up dates.
Is has proven to be very popular and a lot of consumers
are calling requesting info on how to collaborate (collapsing
their phone
)
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Currently working on the Mexico: Tarrant case
and Pakistan. Have worked on UA on Thailand. Also, we have use
the UA network of cyber activists to inform and demand action
regarding Inditex.
Partner Activities
From September - December we work on the follow
up research on working conditions of women, working for Spanish
companies on North of Morocco.
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
CRL is member of the social responsibility platform
together with Amnesty International, Economist with out borders
and Oxfam Spain. As such we have addressed the members of AENOR
(Spanish agency for the implementation of European normative)
on the issue of SR for national companies.
New Publications and Materials
- CRL Nº 20 Newsletter.
- We are updating the contents on the web, especially those
related to current local actions and social responsibility.
Involving specialist on SR into writing articles for the
web.
- CRL has evaluated the work, communication and materials
from June 02 - 03, the period of the new coordinator. Available
in Spanish.
Sweden - Kampanjen Rena Kläder
Public Awareness
Activities and Events
Festival tour
We always do a festival tour to different music festivals.
Next to some specific member organisation activities (like congress),
the festival tour resulted in 6140 postcards that we know for
sure reached the companies. We have distributed 20 000 postcards
in total.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
During this autumn we have started to work with
urgent appeals. We translated "urgent appeals" to
"Blixtupprop" in Swedish. The first case was Jaqalanka
Ltd, one TV-show covered it. The second case was Tarrant México
- Ajalpan, which is going on right now.
Switzerland - Clean Clothes Campaign
Public Awareness
Activities and Events
Visit of two Swiss garment factories
March from Zurich to Berne from Berne Declaration (six days):
there was one day dedicated to the textile industry. We visited
with about 60 persons and some members of the trade unions two
factories. Panel discussion on fashion and globalisation in
the evening.
Public debate in Thusis
We had a discussion about the CCC with people from world
shops at a bookstore.
Burma Campaign
The two Swiss companies Migros (garment) and Fenaco (rice
for animal food) have stopped their imports from Burma after
a public debate on TV and complaints from Berne Declaration.
A social audit at the garment factory (realised by Eco-Tex,
Köln) for Migros showed severe non-compliance with the
Migros-Non-Food-Code (mainly in OSH, there was no child labour
and no forced labour). There are no further imports planned.
School projects
Volunteers shall be trained to present CCC related issues
in schools.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
PT Doson
There were 383 letters sent to Nike over the homepage of
Berne Declaration. Nike was sending answers to the activists,
saying that this is no issue for Nike any more.
North Sails Lanka
We sent 170 letters to Boards & More (Y. Marchand)
and to Jacobs over the homepage of Berne Declaration (in German,
French, Italian, English). Additional letters were sent to North
Sails Lanka, North Sails Austria and Switzerland, to Boards
and More in Germany, and to the (former) parent company KJ Jacobs
in Switzerland. No response yet.
Public Authorities
Legal Action
National human rights institution for Switzerland
- June 20th 2003: The Swiss parliament has agreed on the
creation of a Swiss national human rights institution. The
objective of such an institution will be to ensure that
the laws and regulations concerning the promotion and protection
of human rights are effectively applied. The government
is mandated to support human rights by the Swiss constitution.
An institution or a commission should receive the order
and the resources to actively promote this goal. The UN
is supporting the creation of such institutions; more information
on other countries under: www.nhri.net.
- October 24th 2003: Hearing from Swiss administration
with NGOs on the forming for a Swiss national human rights
institution. For the NGOs it is important that the Institution
will be independent from the government and that it has
enough resources and competences to do the job. Representatives
from the trade and industry at a parallel hearing remained
mainly sceptical towards this initiative.
New Publications and Materials
Labour conflicts in the world factories of
the garment industry and International Solidarity Campaigns.
An evaluation of the Clean Clothes Campaign's Urgent Appeals ,
by Barbara Rimml, University of Berne. This book consists of
an evaluation of the urgent appeal cases of the CCC-network.
Did the labour disputes supported by international pressure
end in a success or not? Besides giving an overview on the different
cases (summaries, statistics, conflict types), successful and
unsuccessful cases and their impact on the targeted parties
are compared in order to find out why some campaigns were successful
and others not. Price is CHFr 24,-/copy; Online order under:
http://www.soz.unibe.ch/nbb/rimml.asp
Study on multistakeholder approach of CCC
, by Michel Ducommun, a thesis in German. This can be ordered
by e-mail from ccc@evb.ch
(Word file with 785 Kb). Full title in German: Definition und
Verwaltung von sozialer Gerechtigkeit in einer neoliberalen
Weltordnung, eine Untersuchung des Kodexansatzes der Clean Clothes
Campaign zur Durchsetzung gerechter Arbeitsbedingungen in der
Bekleidungsindustrie. Michel Ducommun, University of Fribourg
(Schweiz), 2003.
Building on Quicksand? The Global Compact,
democratic governance and Nestlé by Dr. Judith Richter.
Together with CETIM and IBFAN-GIFA, the Berne Declaration has
just published a critical study about the Global Compact and
global governance, including a Nestlé case study. You
can order it at: Berne Declaration, http://www.evb.ch/product.cfm?product_id=153&action=detail&folder=248;
E-Mail order: info@evb.ch.
The price is 5€ or 5$/copy, incl. postage for orders from
other countries.
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