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Outcome of OECD complaint case of German Clean Clothes Campaign against
adidas disappointing
OECD Guidelines for Multinational Corporations under examination
Statement of the German Clean Clothes Campaign
Wuppertal, 15 September 2004
We agreed to disagree - this is the key conclusion drawn by the parties
involved in an OECD complaint case of the German Clean Clothes Campaign
(CCC) on instances of labour rights violations in two Indonesian supplier
factories of adidas. Yet, in spite of an overall disappointing outcome
of this case under the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Corporations,
the German CCC considers it to have been far from a useless exercise.
In the following, the CCC makes an assessment of this case combined
with proposals for future action.
1. Supply chain instance not controversial
Since the revision of the OECD Guidelines in June 2000, their scope
of application has been extended to include worldwide supplier factories
of multinational corporations from OECD member countries. In several
complaint cases which have been filed since then, this scope turned
out to be controversial, especially so in Germany where two cases were
not accepted by the National Contact Point (NCP) due to the lack of
an investment nexus. However, in the complaint case of the German CCC
against adidas, its supply chain nature did not prevent it from being
accepted by the NCP. This can be mainly attributed to the fact that
adidas itself has broadly promoted its ethical principles for global
sourcing since 1999.
In view of the ever growing shift of operations of multinational corporations
towards global sourcing, it is imperative to maintain the existing scope
of application of the OECD Guidelines including supply chains.
2. Social standards beyond OECD Guidelines provisions
Although the OECD Guidelines, under paragraph IV "Employment and
Industrial Relations", are limited to the core labour standards
of the ILO, the complaint case of the German CCC also included violations
of the ILO conventions on wages and hours of work - two key features
of working conditions in the garment and sportswear industry not only
in Indonesia, but worldwide. Adidas accepted the challenge and referred
to the respective CCC criticism in its statements which sets an important
precedent for the OECD.
From the beginning, the CCC has argued that the ILO conventions on
wages and hours of work should be integrated into the provisions of
the OECD Guidelines, since low wages compel workers to work overtime,
thereby leading to cases of de-facto forced labour.
3. Publicity and transparency
Since 2000, civil society organisations have criticized the OECD Guidelines
because of their lack of transparency. In February 2003, when the German
CCC took over the complaint from the Austrian CCC, it broadly publicised
this complaint case to the media, much to the displeasure of the German
NCP. Press reports did not only cover the view of the CCC, but also
statements from adidas. However, during the mediation phase of the case,
media work stopped, following the provisions of the OECD Guidelines.
The German CCC opts for more transparency and an opening of complaint
cases to a broader public so as to counterbalance the overall weak position
of unions and non-governmental organisations (NGOs) in the framework
of the OECD Guidelines.
4. NCP Advisory Council helpful
The German NCP is composed of one department only and based at the
Ministry of Economics and Labour in Berlin. Since the revision of the
OECD Guidelines in 2000, NGOs and unions have been successful in contributing
to the establishment of an Advisory Council which closely follows complaint
cases and can give recommendations. The CCC continuously informed the
unions and NGOs of the Advisory Council about the development of the
case thereby spreading these news also to the German and international
OECD Watch networks and to TUAC of which they are members. This communication
contributed to a more detailed analysis of the strategy of the stakeholders
involved and to organising support of the CCC position.
The composition of the German NCP should be extended to include more
government departments like in other OECD countries. The function of
NGOs and unions in the Advisory Council should be strengthened, and
regular communications to a broader public be made possible.
5. Global vs. factory remediation
Confronted with the CCC evidence of labour rights violations in two
Indonesian supplier factories of adidas, the company attempted to discredit
it as outdated (the violations took place between the end of 1999 up
to 2002/2003) and to shift the attention towards its general global
ethical programme. The strategy of the CCC, however, was to analyse
the cases in detail and call for specific remediation in these two factories,
as well as for general structural corrective actions. The NCP supported
the strategy of the CCC, and called on adidas to include detailed answers
to specific allegations and objections of the CCC in its reply to the
complaint.
Although it is obvious that the emphasis should be laid on structural
changes in the overall sourcing policy of companies such as adidas so
as to ensure that workers in global supplier factories (and not only
in two of them) can work and live in dignity, it is necessary to analyse
and remedy specific OECD complaint cases first, thereby laying the ground
for general conclusions.
6. Evidence against evidence: the dilemma of NCP mediation
The voluntary nature of the OECD Guidelines and the existing role of
NCP mediation offered no mechanism to validate the truth or untruth
of the evidence presented by the two parties CCC and adidas. The company
qualified the CCC evidence, complemented by the results of detailed
new research undertaken in Indonesia in the course of 2003, as outdated,
subjective and false, and Indonesian witnesses as unreliable. The CCC
rejected much of the information by one factory and by adidas since
it did not correspond to statements of witnesses, or contradicted itself.
The result was that the proof by the two parties stood opposed to each
other, without a perspective of a solution. In the eyes of the CCC,
it was therefore useless to continue collecting new data and evidence.
The current mediation role of NCPs provides very limited effects. Dialogue
should be geared to developing solutions. There should be an appeal
mechanism attached to the present complaint process. OECD cases could
for instance be connected to Administrative Courts, Parliamentary Committees,
Ombuds(wo)men etc. The mandate of NCPs should be extended to include
investigations on their own.
7. CCC proposals for corrective action rejected, but external solution
supported
Since there was no agreement between the CCC and adidas on the evidence
of labour rights violations in the two factories, adidas also refused
to accept any of the respective CCC proposals for corrective action.
These proposals included the reinstatement of union members, special
trainings and the set-up of a relief fund for 20 workers victimised
in one of the two factories. However, at the beginning of 2004, at the
joint invitation of adidas and Oxfam Community Aid Abroad, the US verification
body the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) agreed to examine the situation
at one of the factories and to assist the efforts of all parties to
address worker rights problems. The results of this examination, published
at the end of May 2004, confirmed much of (and even more than) the evidence
presented by the CCC in the framework of its OECD complaint case. According
to the WRC study, adidas accepted a series of corrective actions, some
of them very similar to what the CCC had proposed to adidas in the OECD
case. It is strange why adidas did not refer to the running WRC investigation
when the CCC proposals of October 2003 were discussed at the NCP mediation
meeting in February 2004 in Berlin, and why adidas did not opt for the
negotiations to be suspended as long as the WRC results were not known.
Once the NCP mediation process will be connected to bodies like Administrative
Courts, Parliamentary Committees etc., broader-based investigations
into specific cases including steps towards corrective action are supposed
to become an official component of the complaint process itself. Parallel
examinations are useful to complement these efforts.
8. Unequal burden of material resources
The OECD complaint case of the German CCC against adidas required a
considerable input of material resources in terms of time, energy and
finance. This represented a heavy burden on the shoulders of the CCC.
The German CCC, an alliance of NGOs and unions struggling to finance
a small office and one part-time coordinator, had no money available
to pay for the expenses of this complaint. Financial input came from
the "SÜDWIND Institut für Ökonomie und Ökumene",
and the services union "VER.DI", who mobilised finance from
their own funds and from the protestant church relief organisation "Bread
for the World". For adidas, however, being the second largest sportswear
company of the world, with profits of 260 million EURO in 2003 alone,
the input into the OECD complaint case will not have been more than
"peanuts". The NCP did not offer any funds to run the complaint,
not even to finance transports to and from Berlin.
The OECD Guidelines formulate a mandate to member states. The current
understanding is that complainants ( NGOs and unions) must bear the
brunt to prove non-compliance with government obligations. This is not
acceptable. OECD countries should equip NCPs with a budget which - as
a minimum - allows the refunding of expenses such as travel costs.
9. Involvement of witnesses in production countries
OECD complaint cases rely on reports of witnesses from global supplier
factories of multinational corporations and local organisations which
are dealt with by NCPs in OECD countries. Currently these witnesses
are indirectly represented by unions and NGOs from OECD countries. The
logic underlying the OECD Guidelines, however, requires a broader follow-up
structure of complaint cases involving the governments of production
countries.
The role which witnesses, NGOs and unions from production countries
play in OECD complaint cases, should be strengthened by NCP partner
structures in these countries. These partner structures should function
similar to NCPs in OECD countries.
Final remark
Although the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Corporations are a voluntary
instrument to enhance their global social responsibility, they nevertheless
compel member governments to follow-up on their compliance through NCP
structures. In so far, the OECD Guidelines are a mixture of voluntary
and binding regulation. In view of the limited effects which according
to the CCC, complaint cases filed to the OECD have had so far, it seems
necessary to strengthen this instrument considerably if it is to fulfil
its function. The proposals for future action mentioned above, are options
which may be considered at the next revision process of the OECD Guidelines
if sufficient public pressure can be generated.
Since their adoption in 1976, the OECD Guidelines for Multinational
Corporations have undergone a series of revisions, the latest one involving
some remarkable steps forward such as the extension of their scope of
application including supply chains.
In the long run, however, a strategy of ensuring the global observance
of social and labour standards by multinational corporations through
complaint cases will be insufficient. The above-mentioned proposals
should therefore be seen as steps towards binding international regulation.
Ingeborg Wick
SÜDWIND Institut für Ökonomie und Ökumene
Uwe Wötzel
VER.DI (German Services Union)
Contact: Ingeborg Wick, e-mail: wick@suedwind-institut.de,
tel: 0049 - 2241 - 259530
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