Why aren't there any environmental demands in the codes of
conduct?
The codes of conduct only cover clothing production, that is to
say the portion of the production process that begins with the cutting
of material and ends with retail sales in a store. That's not to
say that there aren't problems in the working conditions involved
in other, earlier phases (for example: cotton farming, the making
of thread, and textile weaving). But one can only make demands on
retail firms regarding those aspects of the production process over
which they have control. Also, we feel we can be more effective
by focusing on working conditions. Sometimes though, social and
environmental abuses coincide, for instance when hazards for workers
are caused by environmental problems. They then fall under health
and safety conditions and become part of the campaign.
The phase of the production process that deals with the actual
manufacturing of clothing presents fewer environmental concerns
than other phases of the production process, such as textile production
and agriculture. We find that these issues are more important
in the earlier phases, for instance, in the dying of textiles,
the shrink-proofing and crease-resistance processes, and the use
of pesticides in cotton farming. It would seem more logical for
codes that deal with these phases of production to contain more
environmental demands than for the codes that deal mostly with
the cutting and sewing of fabric.
There are a number of organisations in national CCCs which combine
social and environmental issues (for instance the Dutch alternative
consumer organisation Goede Waar & Co - www.goedewaar.nl).
They work together with environmental groups and put pressure
on companies to do such things as produce a certain percentage
of their clothing using biological cotton. The certification systems
that some environmental groups have, also deal with some social
issues. In any event, it is important for all of these organisations
to work together in a coordinated way.
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