April, 2008
Edun Live and Edun Collection
Company
/ Ownership: There are two Edun companies: Edun
Live is a high volume blank t-shirt company, and
Edun Collection is a men's and women's clothing
collection. Edun Live states it is a for-profit
business that aims to 'provide long-term sustainable
employment in developing countries to help foster
economic growth rather than provide charity'(1).
The two companies are linked to Ali Hewson and Bono.
linked
to Ali Hewson and Bono...
Share ownership:
unknown
Markets: Edun Live
t-shirts are sold through the website.
Edun Collection is sold in Australia, Canada,
Greece, Ireland, Italy, The Netherlands, Turkey,
UAE, Japan, UK and USA amongst others.
Manufacturers: Edun
Live t-shirts are manufactured in factories in
sub-Saharan African countries, such as Uganda,
Lesotho and South Africa(2).
Edun Collection produces in India, Peru, Tunisia,
Kenya, Uganda, Lesotho, Mauritius and Madagascar(3).
Standards: Edun Live
has a code of conduct called Terms of Reference
on its website. It includes standards on legal
compliance, forced labour workplace discrimination,
child labour, freedom of association, wages and
benefits, hours, dormitories, harrassment and
abuse, health and safety, implementation, children
and wages. The Terms of Reference include preferred
standards in relation to wages and child labour.
Contractors, subcontractors, principal suppliers
and licensees found to be in breach of one or
more terms of the code or failing to implement
the corrective action plan, shall lose the right
to produce or organize production of goods for
EDUN or to provide services for EDUN(4).
It was not possible to find a code of conduct
on Edun Collection's website, although one is
referred to in the frequently asked questions.
'Our decision to do business with a factory is
based not only on price / margins and quick delivery,
but also on where trade is needed the most as
well as the social and environmental performance
of our business. Through our assessment, remediation
and capacity building programs Edun will ensure
our suppliers meet all legal labor and health
and safety requirments, including paying workers
their legal wages and benefits. It is for both
a deeper commitment - working with the factories
to grow their capabilities so they are a viable
resource for us as well as other brands'(5).
Reporting: Edun Live's
website contains a staff blog(6),
including videos, about visits to factories. It
was not possible to find detailed reports about
conditions in factories, nor a full list of factory
locations.
Monitoring and verification:
Edun Collection uses non-profit auditing
company Verite for carrying out audits. Staff
visit factories at least twice a year and works
with them to 'improve compliance infractions through
coaching and feedback'. They state that the context
of each supplier's situation will determine the
best approach for dealing with non-compliance(7).
We didn't find any available information on Edun
Live's policies and practices relating to monitoring
and verification.
Comments and questions
Disappointingly, neither Edun nor its PR company
responded to our questions.
Edun Live's decision to commit to long term sourcing
in sub-Saharan Africa is welcome as the industry
there is highly vulnerable to changes in trade
rules and increased competition. However, if employment
is to be sustainable it needs to ensure that workers
have access to decent work. On the basis of available
information it is not clear that this is the case
for workers producing Edun products and there
is little to distinguish their policies from those
of other large mainstream retailers.
For example, in relation to wages, the Edun Live
Terms of Reference request that the workers are
paid either the legal minimum wage or the local
industry standard wage, whichever is greater.
Payment of a living wage that is 'always sufficient
to meet the basic needs of employees (that standard
for which is to be identified), their families,
and to provide some discretionary income(8)'
is a "preferred practice".' In other
words, workers do not need to be paid a living
wage to be involved in making Edun's products.
Edun does not produce a list of factories or
publish a report about conditions online. It is
also not clear if or how they work collaboratively
with other buyers to work to improve conditions
in their factories.
Whilst Edun Collection website states the company
'maintains a positive, open attitude towards the
organizational and administrative activities of
trade unions', it is not clear whether the factories
that Edun works with are unionised or not or what
steps Edun take to ensure workers are aware of
their openness to union organising.
Notes: