99-12-23

MEMORANDUM ON BENETTON IN TURKEY (by Ersilia Monti)

Update on the case
On 12th October, Corriere della Sera publishes an article exposing the presence of children in the Bermuda factory of Istanbul working for Benetton's Turkish licensee. The independant textile trade-union, Disk Tekstie Sendikasi, carried out an investigation within the factory by inserting an undercover trade-unionist on the pay roll.

On 15th October, an Agreement is signed in Turkey. The Italian firm, its
licensee Bogazici, the Italian and Turkish trade-unionist, set out "the
principles of clean production". Although invited to take part in the
negotiations, the Turkish Ministry of Labour does not make an appearence.
The Agreement provides for: a minimum working age of 15 years, equal
opportunities, fair wages, insurance coverage according to the law,
responsability for the entire production cycle shouldered by the
manufacturer. No prevision is made for any freedom for trade-union
associations or any right to collective bargaining, clearly demonstrating
exactly how fragile workers' rights are in countries such as Turkey. It is,
however, the first time that the Turkish trade-union has succeeded in
signing an agreement with a firm as important as Bogazici. Moreover, the
two sides agree to conduct a joint investigation on working conditions
inside Bermuda and to assess their findings after one month. The Turkish
authorities have also been invited to partecipate.

On 5th November, Benetton brings out an action for libel against Corriere
della Sera and its journalist, denying any direct responsability in the
matter: "production in Turkey is directed by a Turkish enterprise acting in
organizational and decision-making autonomy". Benetton also claims that
some of the children identified by the journalist were older than stated.

On 30th November, a Benetton Press release states that the inquiry has been
terminated. The firm claims that there is no trace of minors having been
employed by Bermuda and offers as proof, an inspection conducted by the
Turkish Ministry of Labour, the investigation carried out by the private
company "Ernst & Young" on commission to Bermuda and the findings of the
State textile trade-union Türk-Is Teksif Sendikasi who is in agreement with
those of the Ministry of Labour. In his comment published by Corriere della
Sera, the Journalist confirms the authenticity of this exposure and
declares his intention of publishing further proof. On 2nd December, Neil
Kearny, on behalf of the International textile trade-union, asks the firm
not to understimate the local trade-union's claim that it has found
numerous children in employment, and not to rely on inquiries instigated by
themselves but to make every effort to send the children back to school,
having an adult from each of the families. The Italian trade-union, which
has, as yet, not taken an official stand, is awaiting a letter from Disk
Tekstil Sendikasi, in which the independent Turkish trade-union repeats its
intention of confirming its exposure. Our "Osservatorio Benetton -
Coordinamento per il consumo critico" has given a Press release attacking
Benetton for:

1) having unilaterally decided to terminate the inquiry despite the fact
that the agreement included a joint assessment with the other signatories;

2) having given credibility to a subsequent investigation by the Turkish
Ministry of labour proven to be unreliable by the fact that it refused to
take part in the negotations of 15th October although explicitly invited to
attend;

3) not having believed the findings of a trade-union which, on 20th
October, on television, in the presence of Benetton representatives, once
again confirmed its accusations;

4) continually referring to Turkish law when the signed agreement overides
the same in accordance with ILO provisions.
It must be said, however, that the Italian press has given little space to
the Benetton press release, perhaps because neither the Italian nor the
Turkish trade-unions have made official statements to date.

On 17th December, during a fashion fair, the Head of Public Relations in
the course of a conference, states " a banana skin can turn up, but our
banana skin is not like Nike's". He then has to face a Nike representative
present at the meeting. The chairman reatly expresses the industrialists'
line of thought: "Don't let us destroy our best assets: Benetton represents
the new way of marketing of the century we can do nothing but give thanks".

On december 22nd in occasion of a public discussion on TV, Riccardo Orizio,
Corriere della Sera's journalist, declares that he has collected a mountain
of proofs that at Bermuda children did work.

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