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Labour rights violations at PT. Tuntex, Indonesian garment supplier of adidas-Salomon 1999-2002

Chronology of a case study

Since 1999 the "Urban Community Mission" (UCM) in Jakarta and the SÜDWIND Institut für Ökonomie und Ökumene in Siegburg have carried out research on labour conditions at the factory PT. Tuntex/Jakarta. Tuntex is a garment supplier of adidas-Salomon. SÜDWIND and the German Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) have brought labour rights violations in this factory to the attention of adidas since the beginning of 2000. Although some progress was made, there are continuing violations of Indonesian labour laws, ILO Conventions and provisions of the adidas code of conduct at PT. Tuntex until today.

1. UCM Research 1999 / 2000

Results of the first UCM research in 1999 / 2000 were part of a book published by SÜDWIND and the German CCC in May 2000 under the title "The knot in the thread - Indonesian garment production for German fashion transnational corporations" (SÜDWIND texte 11). On page 75-77 the following labour rights violations are mentioned at Tuntex.

  • forced overtime
  • extraordinarily high financial sanctions for being late and for production mistakes
  • obstructions of the legal menstruation leave
  • repression of union activities
  • wages below the legal minimum wage
  • exceeding the legal maximum number of working hours per week
  • ill treatment of workers
  • violations of occupational health and safety rules.

In a letter dated 8th March 2000 adidas had confirmed most of these violations and promised to initiate corrective action.

2. Follow-up research UCM and SÜDWIND September 2000

Follow-up research on labour conditions at PT. Tuntex by UCM and SÜDWIND in September 2000 showed that there continued to be the following violations:

  • forced overtime
  • overtime pay below the legal requirement
  • exceeding the legal maximum number of working hours per week: a pay slip of one worker indicated that in one week she had worked 50,5 overtime hours
  • next to the normal amount of 40 hours
  • extraordinarily high sanctions for coming late

3. Hearing of the European Parliament on 22nd November 2000 in Brussels

On 22nd November 2000 the "Committee on Development and Cooperation" of the European Parliament organised a Hearing on labour conditions at supplier factories of adidas and Nestle. This Hearing took place in the wake of the resolution on code of conduct of the European Parliament dated 13th January 1999. The UCM representative Ms.Rainy Hutabarat was invited to this Hearing. She gave a report on continued labour rights violations at the adidas supplier factory PT. Tuntex, such as

  • the legal minimum wage paid to the workers does not meet the criteria of the respective ILO Convention which calls for a living wage
  • exceeding the legal maximum number of working hours per week
  • overtime pay below the legal requirement
  • occupational health and safety rules were violated.

Adidas did not accept the invitation of the European Parliament to participate in the Hearing.

4. UCM Follow-up research August 2001

Interviews with workers during follow-up research by UCM of August 2001 showed that the following labour rights violations continued:

  • forced overtime
  • exceeding the legal maximum number of working hours per week
  • some workers were paid less than the legal minimum wage, and others received wages which did not meet the criteria of the ILO Convention.

5. SÜDWIND Follow-up research February 2002

SÜDWIND follow-up research in February 2002 showed the following continued violations:

  • exceeding the legal maximum number of working hours per week
  • overtime pay below the legal requirement.

The conclusion which SÜDWIND draws from the negligence of comprehensive improvements at PT.Tuntex is the following: a) it is not sufficient to integrate workers into the internal company monitoring in isolated cases, and b) only an independent monitoring institution in which the workers are represented, can guarantee sustained progress.

Ingeborg Wick
Siegburg, 24th April 2002

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