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CCC Reference Guide on Code Implementation & Verification
Section 4. Critical issues on code implementation and verification
Purchasing practices and pricing
Who pays for the costs associated with the implementation of codes remains
a crucial issue. This cost generally cannot be met by the suppliers. To
do so they will have to be paid more for their services and given other
incentives. This means sourcing companies will have to make policy changes
(for example, pricing structures) to allow suppliers to achieve the standards
outlined in the code.
Companies need to address the conflicting logic of simultaneously pursuing
lower prices and shorter delivery times whilst at the same time pursuing
compliance with labour standards. In practice, companies often run parallel
and often uncoordinated systems: one to assure the maximizing of profits
and one to assure compliance with ethical standards. Current purchasing
practices on the part of buyers tend to undermine the capacity of the
supplier to comply with labour standards. And when buyers make the ethically
questionable choice to source from countries that outlaw or restrict
freedom of association, such as China or Vietnam, it is even more likely
that workers and their organisations will be marginalized or excluded
from the mechanisms set up to implement, monitor or verify code compliance.
While no boycott of such countries is being proposed, the choice to
move production to these places does have serious implications, since
the ability to join and form unions of their choice is after all a fundamental
workers' right and in the end, without the ability for workers' to exercise
such a right code compliance programmes cannot be sustainable in the
long term.
Available Resources
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Dec 2005, Purchasing Practices
Can Undermine Workers' Rights
CCC Newsletter 20
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May 2005, Fair
Purchasing Practices? - Some Issues for Discussion. Addressing
the negative impact that purchasing practices or sourcing systems
can have on code compliance was one of main demands in the Play
Fair at the Olympics campaign. This paper will first briefly discuss
the main elements related to purchasing practices and their relation
to the CCC's campaign activities.
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June 2004, ETI
Members' Roundtable Purchasing Practices: 'marrying the commercial
with the ethical'. On June 7 2004 the Ethical Trading Initiative
organized a Roundtable on "Purchasing Practices", and
how these can undermine the effects of ethical trade programmes
by restricting suppliers' ability to uphold international labour
standards. This topic was also highlighted strongly in the Olympics
campaign. Approximately 70 participants attended this roundtable,
comprising over 40 from ETI member companies including staff from
buying departments, a few non-member companies, NGOs, trade unions,
consultants, and ETI secretariat staff. ETI feels "this large
turnout is testament to its importance to the ethical trade agenda.
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May 2004. ETI published a report of the consultation organized
by the NGO caucus (the group of UK NGO ETI members). Participants
came from eighteen different organizations, five from Africa, eight
from Asia, four from Latin America, and one from Eastern Europe.
Before the consultation took place all actively participated in
the ETI Conference. The full report of the consultation, published
in May 2004, may be downloaded in English at: Voices
from the South and Eastern Europe and in Spanish at: Voces
del Sul y de Europa del Este
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53 kb) Pricing
in the global garment industry
Somo bulletin on issues in garments & textiles - Number 1, may
2003
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PRICING IN
THE GLOBAL GARMENT INDUSTRY
An international seminar organized by International
Restructuring Education Network Europe (IRENE) and Clean
Clothes Campaign, in cooperation with EED, Germany.
- Feb 2003
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