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Report on Codes of Conduct in the Garment and Textile Industry
Seminar
26th-30th November 2001, Bangkok, Thailand
The seminar was jointly organised by DAGA (Documentation
and Action Group Asia), URM-CCA (Urban Rural Mission - Christian
Conference of Asia) and Bread for All (Switzerland) with assistance
from AMRC (Asia Monitor Resource Centre) and HKCIC (Hong Kong
Christian Industrial Committee). It was held at the Royal Benja
Hotel, Bangkok, Thailand.
About 35 participants attended from a variety of organisations
and backgrounds, such as labour unions/organisations, community
based groups, consumer based groups and partners both from within
and outside of the DAGA/URC-CCA network.
The expectation of most participants was to learn more about
codes. Those new to the codes debate/issue sought to gain a
general overview and understanding to determine the usefulness
of codes to workers and their work. Others familiar with codes
wanted to learn from each others experiences and debate issues
such as: transparency, monitoring, verification, relationship
of the south to consumer based campaigns and linking codes to
trade agreement.
Aims
The general aims of the seminar are:
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to better understand the issues related to
labour standards, codes of conduct and independent monitoring,
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to get a good picture of current initiatives
in the field of labour rights and codes of conduct, especially
in the textile industry and in Asia
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to discuss what local people and organisations
in Asia could and should do in order to make codes of conduct
a real instrument for workers' empowerment and improvement
of their working conditions.
More concretely, the Objectives of the seminar are:
1) To inform and discuss about:
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Labour standards and labour rights-related
initiatives (ILO, local laws, etc.)
-
codes of conduct in the textile industry (different
kinds of code and the problems they raise): content, implementation,
monitoring
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the Clean Clothes Campaign (model code, results,
etc.)
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the pilot projects launched by the Swiss and
Swedish Campaign (independent monitoring)
2) To define together ways and strategies to involve organisations
and people of the local civil society in all this process, especially
in:
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workers' rights promotion (campaigns, workers'
education and organisation)
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independent monitoring (gathering of information,
interview of workers outside the factories, elaboration of
a complaint system, etc.)
-
creation of better synergies between South
and North organisations.
The presentations given follow the attached agenda. A summary
is provided below:
DAY ONE:
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The Welcome, Introduction and Orientation
was given by Chan Ben Seng, Rev Josef Widyatmadja & Miche
Egger;
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Mapping of Participants - Apo Leung and Kelly
Dent
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The Historical Analysis of the Textile Industry
was not given as Dr MP Joseph was unable to make the seminar
until later due to visa problems. Chan Ka Wai presented a
paper on Working Conditions and Labour Rights in the Textile
and Garment Industry - CHAN Ka Wai
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Introduction to Codes of Conduct - Micheal
Egger
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Panel 1: Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) - Ineke
Zeldenrust
Interfaith Center for Corporate Responsibility - David Schilling
Swiss Pilot Project - Isabelle Scherer
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Panel 2: China Project ) - Jennifer Zhou
Indonesian Campaign Rusti Hutajulu SISBIKUM & Samsinar
Sormin Union Leader - NIKE Factory Indonesia
Thai Labour Campaign - Lek
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Evening Workshop - Stories from Workers.
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Report Back by reporters from Workshops (Stories
from Workers);
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Asian Experience of Codes of Conduct - Critical
Analysis; Stephen Frost, AMRC
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Issues of pricing and Subcontracting - Parry
Leung and Vicki Chan , HKCIC
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Role and Involvement of NGOs and the Church
- Father Joe Dizon, WAC
Workshops to discuss: The different roles and division of labour
of groups/unions in the north and the south in relation to Codes
of Conduct - who sets the agenda and how does it involve local
partners? How can the various groups/unions work together; Workers
Education: What type and how to use for labour organising; Ideas
for follow up and future work
DAY THREE:
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Report Back from Workshops (workshop reporters);
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Workshops to discuss follow up activities
in sub regional groupings: Report Back from the sub regional
Workshops
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Discussion and finalisation of draft Statement/Communiqué
from the workshop
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Evaluation and final comments
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Closing
Report Backs from the Workshops
Day One: Evening Workshop - Stories from
Workers
GROUP ONE: Report by Sheik Rahaman (Bangladesh)
Thailand - Three Unionists from a Thai factory were present
and reported that there are 190 members in their trade union.
Workers feel that something has changed in their factory after
the formation of the union. Employers do not like the union
and practices various types of harassment. Employers do not
follow codes.
Indonesia - Samsinar worked in Nike since 1997. She established
another union in 1998. The working conditions are very bad.
Code is displayed in the factory but the document is in English.
Most of the workers do not read English. This is a common practice
and is also common in Thailand.
Pakistan - Kamran Sidiq presented a general overview of the
textile and garment industry in Pakistan and the social economic
challenges that are faced by the industry. In Pakistan, the
textile industry employs almost exclusively men while the garment
industry employs approximately 60% women. Majority of these
women are unmarried and between 18-25 years. Legislation on
social standards is largely satisfactory in Pakistan and rather
exhaustive. However, there are many loopholes and exemptions
with regard to the number of employees of a factory, the sector
or employment and the location of the industry. New regulations
regarding the form and the exhaustive practice of subcontracting
may be required. Implementation and monitoring is a serious
problem in both countries. Coordination between Ministries and
Departments is poor.
GROUP TWO: Report by Stephen Frost (Hong Kong)
Thailand - Through belonging to the trade union workers
now feel powerful and in a position to counter the bullying
of the management. They can assert their rights in the factory.
They asked in return "what do you propose to do with the
information that you have collected from us?" This is a
very strong challenge to the participants of the seminar - who
ultimately benefits from the researches done?
China - Workers need to be in the position to be able
to bargain and negotiate with the management. Most workers are
unaware of codes. Where buyers or monitors/auditors do visit
companies, workers answer their questions as instructed by management.
Generally workers are scared to go to the Labour Ministry for
fear of losing their jobs or resident status (in the area they
are working).
Sri Lanka - Asoka Weerasinghe presented a paper from
a questionnaire of some garment workers. Sri Lanka's apparel
export industry has established itself as the leading export
industry. It has now replaced tea exports as the leading foreign
exchange earning industry, amounting to 42% of Sri Lanka's total
value of exports. The recent "Clean Clothes Campaign"
which has been launched by some European counterparts may have
beneficial effects on the workers in garment factories in Asian
Countries like Sri Lanka. While the issues and objectives of
the campaign are justified and laudable, if implemented this
may cause increase in the cost of production of clothes in the
Asian Region.
DAY TWO: Workshops to discuss: The different roles
and division of labour of groups/unions in the north and the
south in relation to Codes of Conduct - who sets the agenda
and how does it involve local partners? How can the various
groups/unions work together; Workers Education: What type and
how to use for labour organising; Ideas for follow up and future
work.
GROUP ONE: Report by Stephen Frost (Hong Kong)
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Because of the "spread out" structure
of the industry - investors in one corner of the triangle,
the producers in another corner, and the consumers in the
third, the division of labour has become important.
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Can the campaign work across borders? E.g.
Can the CCC work in Thailand? Campaigns that exist in Thailand
are directed at workers and not at consumers. Can northern
campaigns also be aimed at educating the workers in Thailand?
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In Korea, the teachers union had a very good
education campaign in schools.
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Bangladesh has a very small consumer market
as far as brand name is concerned. There is little interest
in working conditions. This is similar for Sri Lanka where
the group who consumes brand label products is small. India,
brand consciousness is also low.
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In summary, there are 3 different types of
countries:
(i) Producer countries with a very small consumer market -
Laos, Cambodia, Bangladesh etc
(ii) producing countries with a growing consumer market -
Thailand, Indonesia
(iii) consuming countries with small producer markets - e.g.
western market, Korea & Hong Kong
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Question is how to have an effective programme
that is suitable for all three categories. Hong Kong, for
e.g. has a very strong consumer potential but the awareness
and concern is very low.
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Can campaigns counter advertising? Nike appears
on billboards, and on TV but CCC does not appear in the same
volume/level/mediums.
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The right to organise with regard to campaigning
- how can the northern campaign ignite interest and awareness
in this area. For a long time the focus of the campaign has
been focused on the behaviour and reputation of the company.
How can we link across these regions a campaign on the right
to organise? How to make the campaign on the right to organise
as interesting and acceptable as the anti-Nike campaign? One
of the starting points is to focus on FTZ. Can we lobby governments
to change situation in FTZs to allow the workers to organise?
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Translate campaign work that is consumer focused
to campaigns that include the right for workers to organise.
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Seven Commandments for campaigns:
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Campaigns on demand - that originate
from workers and are followed through on, possibly with
links to other countries, if similar issues. Not determined
in North.
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Dynamic relationship - not one group
dictating the direction of the campaign
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To be starting from the point where the
workers are organised
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Be prepared to work in a coalition
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Respect the trade union's agenda
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Deciding where we fit into the spectrum
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Set a basic menu of strategy
Discussions:
Respecting the agenda of the TU may not be universally applied
- eg TU in china
GROUP TWO: Report by Asoka Weerasinghe (Sri Lanka)
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Identified the different sectors that are
involved and discussed the connection between each of these
groups.
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Distinction between education and training
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Training for alternative employment and self-employment
is also important.
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Other training skills in relation to management
- accounting, conducting meetings,
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Education activities on TU, rights of workers,
etc.
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Problem of time - many workers prefer doing
overtime than to come for training.
GROUP THREE: Report by David Schilling (USA)
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Understanding that campaigns that have emerged
in the north have helped change the national agenda
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The North-South relationship should be restructured,
from the experience of the workers;
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equality of relationship - bottom up
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trust level - how accountable are we
to each other
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fill the gap between the campaigns and
what is happening at the grassroots level
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Co-ordination of groups - groups in the North
and South should not have competing agenda
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Homework - need for better information
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Education: more about training - focus on
training of trainers
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Need to answer the question of resources
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Who will do the training?
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Focus around workers rights, codes of conduct,
labour laws, collective action
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Gender perspective in the training - need
to be sensitive to the needs and concern for the workers,
not just ratio balance in gender participation.
GROUP FOUR: Report by Ashim Roy
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Various elements involved - no child labour,
no forced labour, right of association right of collective
bargaining, minimum hours of work, minimum living wage, etc.
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Linking the development perspective and the
code of conduct. It cannot be only a CoCo strategy. One southern
view is that CoCo should be linked with fair trade between
the north and the south. Need to build coalitions with groups
that view the CoCo within the perspective of the development
issue. CoCo should enable workers to organise.
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Monitoring is another important issue. How
to distinguish a good code and a "PR" code.
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Implementation and monitoring should be connected
to their supplying and ordering policy. Also the pricing policy.
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What are the criteria the Northern partners
should have in the south - the campaign should be complementary
to the partners in the south. Where there is no union, the
campaign should help the formation of unions. Whether there
are unions, the campaign should strengthen their ability for
collective bargaining.
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Education should be focused on health and
safety, organising, bargaining process
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Pilot project as a process of testing and
experimentation.
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Coalition building is important.
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Need to look at the campaign from the perspective
of what it can contribute to social transformation.
Discussions:
Measurements - how to develop the set of measurements -
how to quantify what is the benchmark.
Key Issues and Follow-up
The final statement/communiqué from the workshop indicates
in a general sense the views of seminar participants. It also
indicates broadly areas of agreement -the most critical factor
is that workers must be supported in their efforts to organise
democratic unions. Codes with their advantages and disadvantages,
can only be one tool that may be used to support worker organising,
implementation of labour rights, ILO Conventions and for awareness
raising, depending on the specific circumstances. Other key
issues that arose from the seminar, where further debate and/or
learning and/or resourcing is necessary are not covered by the
statement/communiqué.
Some of these key issues/areas include:
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Generally participants felt that the seminar
met most of the stated and ambitious aims and objectives of
the organisers and their own expectations. Probably the least
met objective was discussion, sharing of experiences and positions
on monitoring (including independent monitoring), verification
and transparency;
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Further follow up on these areas (above) may
be appropriate with those who have experiences in the codes
debate issue, either from the perspective of worker organising
or monitoring or both. Production of simple resource material
could also be useful here for widespread further learning
(it is acknowledged that some of this material already exists);
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For those participants new to the codes debate,
follow-up, especially within the DAGA/URM-CCA Network, with
additional information and further opportunities to meet and
discuss how the seminar has helped, if at all, organisations
with their work in communities/with workers, along with further
identification of issues for discussion/learning. There may
be a need to further examine implementation issues surrounding
the various types of codes, including the various codes developments
such as SA8000, WRAP, FLA, ETI, Pilot Projects etc;
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Controversial areas need to be debated further
for example:
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Can organisations/unions who organise
also monitor?
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What are the respective roles of Unions
and NGO's in monitoring and codes verification?
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What, if any, is the relationship between
Codes, the development model, fair trade and trade agreements?
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What campaigns do Asian Unions/NGOs want?
How to organise a widespread campaign that involves the
north/consumer groups on ILO Conventions such as Freedom
of association, the right to organise and collectively
bargain?
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The relationship and dynamics between
increased informalisation of subcontracting chains, labour
laws and codes. This would also include the informal sector
and homeworkers,
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Pricing;
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Resourcing issues are critical and need further
attention in all areas: organising, worker education and training,
train the trainer, code implementation, monitoring and verification;
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Gender issues within the whole codes debate
need to be explored further for example are gender issues
included in code development, monitoring and verification;
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Codes are one tool in a long chain and complicated
with the retailers, companies and brand names in one end and
the suppliers and workers on the other end of the chain. Need
to bring these two ends to understand each other.
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Worker Education and Training across Asia
is critical to workers organising the implementation of labour
law, ILO Conventions and codes.
DAGA and URM-CCA would like to express gratitude and thanks
to Bread for All for funding this important seminar, for their
support in organising it and their contribution to the programme.
Written by: Chan Beng Seng (DAGA) and Kelly Dent (TIE-Asia)
December 2001
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